It is 2.30pm and there is a raging party going on behind inconspicuous doors in midtown New York, complete with champagne trains, diners dancing on tables and party music on full blast.

We are inside Lavo New York's famed Saturday champagne brunches, a non-stop feast where drinks are brought out by a train of women in sexy astronaut costumes.

The experience starts with being ushered to a seat at a round leather booth. The tables - many with large groups of 10 to 20 people - are placed so closely together that you can almost hear the conversations of your well-dressed neighbours.

A DJ at the back of the room spins an eclectic mix of anything from 1990s Mariah Carey to upbeat David Bowie.

Then the food rolls out. Signature dishes include the softball-sized wagyu beef Lavo meatball served with whipped ricotta, penne alla vodka (a pasta dish made with vodka and penne pasta) and the 20-layer chocolate cake with peanut butter mascarpone.

Insider tip: Ask for the eggplant parmigiana - the recipe is the chef's mother's.

The atmosphere is already buzzy, but at about 3pm, the lights are dimmed and a full-blown party kicks off with club tunes.

By 4pm, there are people dancing on tables as the staff start handing out glow sticks.

Tables continue to order multiple bottles of champagne, tequila or any spirit of choice, which are brought out by the sexy astronauts and waitresses blowing whistles. Sparklers are placed on top of the bottles.

If you are there for a special celebration, you get a signboard with your name on it. The board is paraded through the restaurant as your drinks are brought to you. The staff even have country flags if you are from out of town.

Guests can look forward to a similar restaurant-to-club experience in Singapore's Lavo, which opens next month. It opens seven days a week for lunch and dinner, as well as brunch on weekends, serving classic Italian-American cuisine.

• The writer's trip was sponsored by Marina Bay Sands and The Tao Group.