They will appear again the next night, this time in blue, as we disembark our ship in Svolvaer.
Part cruise ship, part ferry, the Hurtigruten is the classic Norway experience and many travellers hop from port to port, 35 in all, as the ship traces Norway's rough fjord-lined coast over several days.
I spend part of the journey in the hot tub on deck, forgetting the cold as I marvel at the landscape of oddly shaped mountains that the glaciers have left behind.
The Arctic is a windy place, the air in near constant movement over these still, grey waters. As the gusts dance across their surfaces, they go greyer still. It is a quick, brisk walk from tub to table, where I warm myself with a hardy reindeer steak, a staple dish in much of Scandinavia.
Looking ashore, I notice the candlelight that fills nearly every window of the houses there, as if mimicking the soft light in the winter sky.
The following day, we set out on a tour of the Trollfjord, zipping along the icy waters in an open Zodiac boat (www.lofoten-explorer.no/en).
From the sea, Svolvaer's relationship with the water quickly becomes apparent. This fishing town is built atop a series of rock islets interconnected by wooden piers.
On the way to the fjord, we pass beneath swirling sea eagles, each with a wingspan the width of our Zodiac. It is a wonderful ride, beneath jagged snow-covered peaks and past the odd lone cabin, now closed-up for the season.
Within the fjord itself, we are told it is wide and deep enough for the large Hurtigruten ship to make a U-turn. Above the waterline, I spy a group of cross-country skiers gliding slowly along, on a multi-day excursion.
We make an excursion of our own that evening, dinner with a photographer famed for his shots of the Northern Lights, who gives us hints on how best to capture them.
Midway through dinner, I remember the zen parable of the danger of mistaking the moon for the finger that points its way and excuse myself to go outside and look for the Aurora.
Sadly, all is clouded over. It must be minus 20 deg C, but I stand without jacket in the cold, trying to catch snowflakes on my tongue.
I later thaw with a cocktail at the Ice Bar, whose interior temperature hardly differs from that without, sipping from a glass that is made of ice.
An overnight at Narvik breaks the journey from the Lofoten peninsula to the Swedish border. Here, we board a train and head south-east.
The first hour is spent climbing above a fjord, the waters from this height showing a brilliant blue. The town of Katterat at the end of the fjord marks the Swedish border, where the train discharges a handful of Nordic skiers, one of whom is struggling to hold the leash of a very enthusiastic dog.
I wish I could say I was as enthusiastic about our final destination. Kiruna is a modern city and its look reflects that. Perfunctory twostorey structures of simple brick are laid out at random angles along the compact maze of streets. The town was built in 1900 as a settlement for the still-working iron ore mines visible from anywhere in town.
Aside from the Kiruna Church (voted the most beautiful building in Sweden), there is little of interest, barring perhaps a wonderful meal at SPiS Mat&Dryck (www.spiskiruna.se), whose menu is as creative as the wine list is broad. There seems nothing incongruous about a dinner in Lapland, with Argentinian Malbec in the glass and Isaac Hayes coming through the speakers.
Thus fortified, we plan a series of excursions for the following day. We are picked up by Tommy Petersson, the owner of Laxforsen Sleddog, for a dog-sled ride across the frozen surface of a lake.
He is a friendly and knowledgeable man who truly loves and cares for his dogs. Once in harness, they leap and spring in the air as if as excited as we are.
We move briskly through the snow-covered forest, the only real sounds being the soft commands coming from Mr Petersson. I am amazed that the dogs can hear, but he explains that yelling is unnecessary and would destroy the bliss of near silence.
After an hour or so, we drink around a bonfire. Here, Mr Petersson explains that smaller operations like his have the healthiest dogs, since personal care can be spent with each one.
As I ride behind the dozen dogs on our return journey, I gaze out across the rolling terrain and think of my great grandfather, who emigrated to the United States from Sweden, a young man who had paid for his fare by working for a number of years as a guard at a logging camp, protecting the workers from wolves.
Further down the Torne River is the world-famous Ice Hotel. Originally inspired by Japan's Sapporo Snow Festival, artists from around the world gather to rebuild the hotel each winter, each trying to outdo one another in creating the most clever or bizarre designs. Come spring, the entire structure will melt and return to the river.
Guests can opt to sleep beneath reindeer hides in one of these creations, or can choose from one of the heated permanent rooms next door. As we already have a comfortable hotel in town, we merely wander around for a look, before having a bountiful lunch in an old 19th-century house on the grounds.
As night begins to fall, our group meets with a guide from the local Sami tribe. More colloquially known as Laplanders, the Sami have been living and herding in this area for 6,000 years.
Our guide leads us to a reindeer pen, where we feed these impressive animals with their grand antlers. Reindeer play a large part both in the folk tales he shares with us that evening and in the meal itself, in the form of cranberry-covered steaks grilled to a tenderness surprising in a game animal.
There are few things finer than a meal had with friends in a quiet corner of the world, in the company of a people whose way of life seems far from the troubles of the more populated nations to the south.
Leaving the others to continue their meal, I step outside to find a brief moment to myself.
The northern lights are hidden somewhere above, but I find this appropriate as their dazzling electrical dance would only distract anyway. I am happy instead to have the dark, and the solitude, and the sound of my breath echoing off the snow.
•Edward J. Taylor is an American freelance writer based in Kyoto.