Charm of an unchanging Armenia

The country has held onto its identity through the centuries, despite it occupying a fraction of its former territory

The skies are overcast and seagulls are circling around Lake Sevan, which takes up a huge chunk of Armenia's land area in the east.

I climb to the top of a narrow peninsula overlooking the highland lake, a greyish blue expanse fringed by powdery dark green mountains. Little white and yellow flowers sway gently in the cool wind.

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A version of this article appeared in the print edition of The Sunday Times on June 30, 2019, with the headline 'Charm of an unchanging Armenia'. Print Edition | Subscribe