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I tried assam laksa from six stalls in Penang – the best one had no Michelin rating
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The tangy fish-based brew, which combines sweet, sour, spicy and umami flavours, is a Penang speciality.
PHOTOS: DEBORAH L. JACOBS
Deborah L. Jacobs
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PENANG – When Malaysia’s first Michelin Guide was released in 2023, it elevated street food to celebrity status. The dish that has received the most love from culinary critics is assam laksa.
The tangy fish-based brew, which combines sweet, sour, spicy and umami flavours, is a Penang speciality. It starts with a hearty broth made with a strong-tasting, oily and affordable fish, usually either mackerel or sardine. Tamarind and prawn paste create layers of flavours.
