Food Picks: One-Michelin-starred Labyrinth’s refreshed menu of elevated classics
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(Clockwise from top left) Labyrinth's elevated spin on prawn noodles, chilli crab pie and "ketupat" served with the Satay Pigeon.
PHOTOS: LABYRINTH
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SINGAPORE –Since Labyrinth made its debut in 2014 as a modern-Singaporean restaurant, its local chef Han Liguang, 39, has been known for pushing the boundaries of how classic dishes can be reimagined.
And in recent years, the one-Michelin-starred restaurant’s dishes have not only championed local heritage, but also taken on influence from Han’s travels and chef collaborations.
His latest menu – Produce, Heritage and Minimalism – is a proud showcase of how his dishes have evolved. It is priced at $208++ for lunch and $298++ for dinner.
My favourite dish of the lot is his elevated spin on prawn noodles, with gambero rosso prawns and housemade egg noodles cooked in a luscious sauce made with prawn noodle soup enriched with butter. The soup is a layered labour of love, cooked with prawn heads, shells, garlic, shallots and dried scallops.
A nod to wu xiang xia bing (five-spice prawn fritter) stalls that usually sit alongside prawn noodle shops, the dish comes with a crisp prawn chin crusted with bits of prawn fritter. The sambal belacan on the side is the perfect complementary spice kick.
Another standout is the Satay Pigeon – French pigeon marinated with a satay sauce, paired with a pistachio rempah and a “ketupat” made with interwoven zucchini and cucumber strips wrapped around glutinous rice.
The “ketupat” served with the Satay Pigeon is made with interwoven zucchini and cucumber strips wrapped around glutinous rice.
PHOTO: LABYRINTH
For those, like me, who still remember chef Han’s early days of serving chilli crab ice cream, you now get a chilli crab pie with a crisp and blistered exterior akin to McDonald’s apple pie.
The chilli crab pie has a blistered exterior and zuwaigani (snow crab) filling.
PHOTO: LABYRINTH
The closest you get to the chilli crab ice cream now is the sambal tomat (tomato sambal) sorbet palate cleanser.
Yes, he continues to switch things up with the dishes, but some that will – and should – remain include the Roti Boy-inspired coffee brioche as the bread course; and kaya “toast” dessert to finish.
Where: 02-23 Esplanade Mall, 8 Raffles Avenue restaurantlabyrinth.com
MRT: Esplanade
Open: Noon to 2.30pm (Fridays to Sundays), 6.30 to 11pm (Wednesdays to Sundays). Closed on Mondays and Tuesdays
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