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Xiao Hei Tze Char opens in Bedok with new signature dishes of Mala Crab and Pork Knuckle
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(Clockwise from top left) Signature Pork Knuckle, Giant Oyster Omelette and Mala Crab at Xiao Hei Tze Char’s new outlet in New Upper Changi Road.
ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO
- Xiao Hei Tze Char opened a new New Upper Changi Road outlet on March 1, headed by culinary director Devid Retanasamy.
- Signature Mala Crab features fiery housemade sauce with over 30 ingredients, while Pork Knuckle is slow-braised then deep-fried twice.
- The Giant Oyster Omelette contains 20 South Korean oysters with a multi-ingredient sambal, and Fried Garlic Pork Belly offers balanced flavours.
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SINGAPORE – At Xiao Hei Tze Char’s latest outlet in New Upper Changi Road, the signature dishes are bold, borderline showy and designed to make an impression.
Opened on March 1, the stall is headed by Mr Devid Retanasamy, 42, the culinary director after whom the brand is named, and offers several outlet-exclusive dishes. The brand has two other franchised outlets – in Hougang and Serangoon North.
The Mala Crab ($60) arrives with a vivid-red 600g crab offset by green accents of Chinese celery and spring onion. The housemade mala sauce contains more than 30 ingredients, 15 of them Chinese herbs, including danggui (angelica root) and white nutmeg.
Culinary director Devid Retanasamy of Xiao Hei Tze Char at the franchise’s latest outlet in New Upper Changi Road.
ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO
Chuan xiong (Szechuan lovage root) is deep-fried to infuse the oil with its distinctive fragrance. The herbs are not obvious in the mix, but lend a layered spice profile and depth to the mala sauce, which is not numbing but delivers a fiery kick.
The sauce is light on oil, reflecting Mr Retanasamy’s aversion to greasy food. He refrains from adding monosodium glutamate to the already heady, spice-laden blend. The crab meat is firm and flaky.
Mala Crab is an outlet-exclusive item at Xiao Hei Tze Char’s new outlet in Bedok.
ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO
Expect a 30-minute wait for the Signature Pork Knuckle ($33), which is deep-fried twice to order. The pork knuckles, prepared in small batches, are braised for five hours with over 10 ingredients, including green and red peppercorns and danggui, then chilled overnight.
Only when ordered is the whole knuckle deep-fried until the skin blisters. It is chopped and fried again, with the bone crisped separately. The skin stays crisp even after it cools. The meat has a chewy richness from the layer of fat beneath the crackling.
Crisp curry leaves, lightly salted, add fragrance. The indulgent dish holds its own against German pork knuckles, given how thoroughly the meat is infused with flavour.
Signature Pork Knuckle.
ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO
The Giant Oyster Omelette ($38.80) is the most showy dish. Resembling a large pancake, it turns heads when served. Twenty South Korean oysters go into it, 12 in the batter and eight in the sambal topping packed with red onion. The sambal – made twice weekly from more than 20 ingredients, including fresh turmeric, galangal and lemongrass – builds to a sharp burn.
It feels like a misnomer to call it an omelette. As one who prefers the traditional oyster omelette, the pancake is too thick for my liking, even though the edges are shatteringly crisp.
Twenty South Korean oysters go into the Giant Oyster Omelette.
ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO
From the regular menu, the Fried Garlic Pork Belly ($13) is a solid choice. Marinated overnight with huadiao wine, garlic powder and red fermented beancurd, it is balanced and clean, showcasing garlic without overwhelming saltiness.
Fried Garlic Pork Belly.
ST PHOTO: HEDY KHOO
Where: Stall 7, 01-656 Lucky Stars, Block 26 New Upper Changi Road
MRT: Bedok
Open: 11.15am to 10.45pm daily
Tel: 8898-8680 and 8206-2101
