Here’s an appetising deal for two at Latido

SINGAPORE – Before I grow old, I want very much to visit South America. I love the food, and chefs like Fernando Arevalo, who is from Colombia and runs Latido, and Chilean chefs Francisco Araya and Fernanda Guerrero, who run one-Michelin-starred Araya, have taught me so much about their cuisines.

Newbies dining at Latido can order a recently launched appetiser sampler that will whet their appetite for Colombian food. Then all they need to do is figure out what they want for a main course. I have some ideas.

But first, Sabores De Mi Tierra or Flavours Of My Land ($68 for two) comprises five appetisers and they are terrific.

I am so glad that the chef has included Pincho De Corazones, his terrific grilled chicken hearts. It is my favourite thing on the menu and I sometimes drop by just to have it.

The hearts are perfection – springy and juicy. Dip them in egg yolk if you like – it’s on the plate, but have the first one as is, to fully enjoy its glory.

After the richness of the chicken hearts, crunch into Bocados De Tiradito – raw sawara or Spanish mackerel cured with citrus juice, piled into a coriander seed-flecked cup made with a kueh pie tee mould, and topped with lime pearls. It is fresh, not overly sharp or spicy, and the contrasting textures of the crisp shell and velvety fish are wonderful.

That same contrast of textures shows up in Patacon, plantain smashed and fried until crisp, and topped with burrata, tomatoes and scallions. Eat it quick before the plantains go soft. Added to the allure is the hot-cold contrast – most delightful.

Two more substantial appetisers follow – little baby arepas or corn cakes, topped with mashed avocado and thick slices of shortrib. I would like just a tad more heat in the avocado, but the Pincho De Cerdo is otherwise delicious.

Rounding up the spread is Arepa De Queso Y Carne, corn flatbread topped with grilled Iberico pork shoulder, a lightly spicy roasted tomato relish and pickled green chillies. It has everything – crispness, tenderness, heat and freshness.

For the main course, Maiz Crocante ($26) is terrific. It is corn season, and this dish highlights it – shatteringly crisp corn tempura is topped with avocado, pickled onions, preserved lemon, mushrooms and confit egg yolk. Like many of the chef’s dishes, it is bright and vibrant.

His Sopa De Langosta ($58), lobster tail soup with capers, potatoes and avocado, is creamy without being overly rich. But really, when it is available, Lechonsita ($42 for a 100g serving), roasted suckling pig with a tomato relish, is the one I’d order.

Where: 40 Tras Street
MRT: Tanjong Pagar
Open: Noon to 3pm (Tuesdays to Saturdays), 6 to 10pm (Tuesdays to Thursdays), 6pm to midnight (Fridays and Saturdays), closed on Sundays and Mondays
Info: Call 8961-8191 or go to @latido.sg (Instagram)