Hairy crab season: How to know if your prized crustacean is the real deal?

SINGAPORE – Hairy crabs are back in season, and fans of the prized crustaceans can enjoy them at selected Chinese restaurants in November, with several offering them till December. 

Also known as Chinese mitten crab because of its fuzzy claws which resemble mittens, the seasonal delicacy is prized for its rich, buttery and slightly briny roe with a luxurious mouthfeel. Its sweet, delicate meat is also more refined in flavour compared with the more common mud or flower crabs.

Prices range from $88++ each for Traditional Steamed Hairy Crab at Li Bai Cantonese Restaurant to $148++ for Baked Hairy Crab with Lemongrass served with Osmanthus and Wolfberry Ginger Tea at Yi by Jereme Leung.

With the seasonal delicacy being sold at premium prices, how can diners be sure that the hirsute crustaceans being served up are the real deal?

Most restaurants serving hairy crab say they source them from Yangcheng Lake and Lake Tai, also known as Lake Taihu, in the Jiangsu province.

Yangcheng Lake, in particular, is said to be the gold standard source of the prized delicacy.

Cantonese restaurant Madame Fan’s executive Chinese chef Pak Chee Yit, 40, says the pristine, mineral-rich waters of Yangcheng Lake provide the ideal environment for raising hairy crabs, resulting in delicate, sweet meat and rich, buttery roe. 

The restaurant’s Salt-Baked Hairy Crab and Steamed Hairy Crab with Perilla Leaf are priced at $88++ each.

Chef Pak adds: “Knowing the origin of the hairy crabs is important, as customers expect transparency and the assurance that they are enjoying the finest quality.”

As such, the source of the hairy crabs must be well labelled, given their status as a prized autumn offering.

Chef-operator Jereme Leung, 53, of Yi by Jereme Leung at Raffles Hotel Singapore, says his restaurant sources its hairy crabs directly from Lake Tai, the other large reliable source apart from Yangcheng Lake.

He says: “Lake Tai’s capacity for higher volumes of hairy crabs also means that hairy crabs indicated as sourced from there are likely to be authentic, as suppliers will be able to obtain sufficient amounts.”

He notes that while hairy crabs are now widely farmed in other regions in China, Jiangsu and Zhejiang are still regarded as having the best quality produce. This is because the pristine waters there are rich in natural nutrients and minerals, providing an ideal breeding ground for crabs.

He says: “Hairy crabs farmed in these regions generally appear to have cleaner shells, as they are able to live in the grass by the lake, which helps to keep their bodies or shells clean.”

Working with reliable and trusted suppliers who specialise in the hairy crabs is one way to ensure authenticity, says Min Jiang master chef Chan Hwan Kee.

The 51-year-old, who has been working with hairy crabs since 1996, says the Chinese restaurant, which has outlets at Goodwood Park Hotel and Dempsey, sources its crabs from Yangcheng Lake and Lake Tai. 

Rigorous checks on the crabs upon arrival are also necessary.

Chef Chan says: “Authentic hairy crabs are typically round with a robust, firm shell. The legs should be strong and not limp.”

The colour of the shell and the size of the crab, usually palm-size, also matter.

The claws should be a rich gold colour and the hairs on the claw a yellow-gold hue. The shell should be clean and naturally green in colour before it is cooked. The roe inside should be orange and creamy, while the meat should be sweet and rich.

At Li Bai Cantonese Restaurant at Sheraton Towers Singapore, executive Chinese chef Chung Yiu Ming, 66, has 24 years of experience cooking hairy crabs. He says live hairy crabs, delivered within one to two days by air, usually come with certification tags. Only live crabs with responsive eyes are selected to ensure freshness and quality.

At Li Bai, diners can ask to see labels or certification tags before the crab is cooked, but very few do. Says chef Chung: “We hardly get such requests as Li Bai has been in this business for a long time and many of our regular diners know that we take pride in the quality of our ingredients, including seasonal produce such as hairy crabs.”

In preparing hairy crab dishes, chefs say selecting ingredients which complement, rather than overpower, the subtle taste of the prized delicacy is vital. 

Chef Chung prefers simple and clean-tasting touches to bring out the distinctive flavour of the seasonal delicacy. He avoids using strong spices and heavy sauces, and deploys different cooking methods such as deep-frying and steaming to deliver varied textural contrasts when serving the crabs.

One of his new dishes is Deep-fried Grouper Fillet with Hairy Crabmeat and Crab Roe ($38++), in which the crispy exterior of the fish pairs well with creamy crab sauce.

Most diners now prefer to have their hairy crab deshelled and the meat extracted, as it is easier and less time-consuming to eat. For those looking to experience hairy crab in the most authentic way possible, chef Leung suggests tackling a whole crab with various tools – such as a pair of scissors, a pick and a spoon – and getting your hands dirty. 

Whether you prefer to have your hairy crab deshelled or pick out every tasty morsel yourself, here are six places to savour the delicacy while in season.

Get your hairy crab fix

Crystal Jade Palace
Where: 04-19 Takashimaya Shopping Centre, 391 Orchard Road
When: Till Dec 15
Info: www.crystaljade.com

The Hairy Crab Roe and Crispy Conpoy on Shunde Style Chen’s Village Flat Rice Roll ($58++ for regular) is a choice pick for diners who prefer not to deshell crabs themselves. The crab meat and roe go into a rich sauce for housemade rice noodles that absorb the crab’s essence. The noodles are prepared by grinding rice with water, and the mixture is steamed to create sheets of noodles that are cut by hand.

Yi by Jereme Leung
Where: 03-02 Raffles Arcade, 328 North Bridge Road
When: Till Nov 24
Info: www.yi-restaurant.com.sg

Avocado and Crab Meat Tartare served in Crispy Shell ($28++ for six pieces) is a textural delight of tender avocado with slivers of hairy crab meat, accented with a dollop of mayonnaise, cocooned in a pretty spherical shell.

Min Jiang
Where: Goodwood Park Hotel, 22 Scotts Road; and 7A/7B Dempsey Road
When: Till Nov 17
Info: www.goodwoodparkhotel.com/promotions/hairy-crab

Baked Hairy Crab with Chef’s housemade Spiced Sea Salt ($108++) is a new dish which showcases the crab’s aroma. A touch of spiced salt provides contrast to the crab meat’s natural sweetness. Diners can request the hairy crab to be deshelled.

Madame Fan
Where: The NCO Club, 32 Beach Road
When: Till Nov 30
Info: www.madamefan.sg

Madame Fan’s Salt-Baked Hairy Crab ($88++) is the star dish here. Each crab is encased in rock salt fried with spices such as star anise, cinnamon, bay leaves and black cardamom, then baked. The process infuses the crab with the aroma of the spices and removes fishy odours, allowing the delicate flavours of the crustacean to shine. Diners can ask for the crab to be deshelled.

Li Bai Cantonese Restaurant
Where: Sheraton Towers Singapore, 39 Scotts Road
When: Till Nov 30
Info: E-mail libai@sheratonsingapore.com or call 6839-5623

Steamed King Prawn with Egg White, Hairy Crabmeat and Crab Roe ($48++ a serving) features fresh king prawn with succulent hairy crab flesh and luscious roe on a silky egg white custard.

Imperial Treasure Cantonese Cuisine (Great World)
Where: 02-11 Great World, 1 Kim Seng Promenade
When: Till December or while stocks last |
Info: www.imperialtreasure.com/happening/hairy-crab-2024

Braised Flour Skin with Hairy Crab Roe ($40++ a serving) features flour skin made from green beans, which is braised in a superior broth together with stir-fried hairy crab roe. The dish contains pork lard, which adds a rich savoury depth, while ginger oil imparts a fragrant aroma and a gentle heat.