Drinks giant Suntory to debut Barrel, its first Hibiki concept restaurant, in Cecil Street 

SINGAPORE – Japanese beverage giant Suntory, famed for its whisky brands Hibiki and Yamazaki under its spirits division House of Suntory, will open its first Hibiki concept restaurant at 19 Cecil Street on Dec 6. 

It takes over the space that previously housed American grill restaurant Rosemead and rum bar Sugarhall,

both of which shuttered on July 26

. 

Called Barrel, the 83-seat main dining hall – clad in wood, stone and metal – includes two eight-seat private rooms and a 10-seat counter facing a wood-fire grill on the first floor. 

Outside, the casual 50-seat outdoor Terrace is for kicking back with highballs, cocktails and small plates during happy hour from 3 to 7pm. 

The Vault in the basement – a reminder of the venue’s history as a bank – has become an eight-seat whisky salon. Its original steel vault door remains intact, while reclaimed cask wood from the House of Suntory’s Japan distilleries line the walls. 

Prior to these areas opening, Pop City x Pony, a cocktail bar by the Jigger & Pony Group on the second floor, will launch on Nov 26. It is also in collaboration with the House of Suntory. 

While the House of Suntory owns these concepts, it hand-picked Barrel’s Japanese chef-partner Sho Naganuma, 46, to run operations here. 

The Singapore-based chef – best known as co-owner of the popular Torasho Ramen & Charcoal Bar in Tras Street and Torasho Ramen Bar at Takashimaya Department Store – first came here 15 years ago as the executive chef of the now-defunct Hide Yamamoto restaurant at Marina Bay Sands. 

Some items will showcase a special touch with Hibiki Japanese Harmony blended whisky. 

These include chef Naganuma’s spin on chicken rice ($30) – his favourite local dish – where the delicately poached chicken is finished with a Hibiki-infused sauce. It comes with housemade chilli and shiro-negi (Japanese leek) sauce, pickled cucumber and Japanese rice. 

An “adult” version of Hokkaido milk soft serve comes drizzled with Hibiki-infused honey ($12). The rest of the menu features elevated izakaya-style dishes – best paired with drinks, of course. 

Highlights include Mochi Cheese Nuggets ($15) with miso curry sauce; Super Fat Fries ($18) with shio kombu, A5 wagyu fat vinaigrette, chives and shallots; Tonsoku Harumaki, a deep-fried braised pig trotter spring roll ($12); and Prosciutto, Cream Cheese & Shine Muscat Maki Roll ($18). 

Another showstopper is the Sashimi Moriawase (from $38 for three types), which includes a chef’s selection of raw fish items, such as Tokyo Island Onaga Tai (ruby snapper); Shima Aji Maki; and Kinmedai & Ika nigiri, where the rice is replaced with squid.

Expect some Torasho signatures too – Tonkotsu Ramen ($15) and Torasho Cold Stupid Ramen ($78), a cold noodle dish with truffle and seafood.

On top of the a la carte menu, there is a two- ($55) and three-course ($63) set for lunch – with choice of dishes; and a signature dinner set ($68) of various small plates. 

Pair the food with Hibiki flights. The Story of Hibiki ($38) introduces three styles of Hibiki Japanese Harmony – Highball, Rock and Mizuwari (cocktail) – while The Ultimate Flight ($188) and The Barrel ($988) feature rare expressions up to 30 years old. 

Cocktails – in collaboration with the House of Suntory’s team in Tokyo – include Hibiki Champagne Style Highball ($18) and Hibiki Sling ($28), a refined take on the Singapore classic, layered with port and soda. 

Shedding Hibiki’s ‘atas’ image

In an exclusive interview with The Straits Times, chef Naganuma says he declined the House of Suntory team in 2024 when it approached him to open a Hibiki concept restaurant. 

He says: “I told them Singapore is very difficult. Rent is expensive, hiring is super difficult and the economy is not very good.”

Refusing to take no for an answer, the team returned a few months later after scouting for venues and understanding the local market better. 

“I thought they would give up,” admits chef Naganuma. “But they have a long-term vision, to make people love whisky more. It was touching and I felt proud of the Japanese spirit and heart.”

Noting the surge in demand for whisky during the pandemic, he adds that the restaurant debut is in line with the House of Suntory’s efforts to shed Hibiki’s “atas” image and make it more accessible – not just in drinks, but food too. 

And while the House of Suntory owns restaurants in Japan, they are not “Hibiki concepts” like Barrel. 

He does not rule out overseas expansion in the future, and has his sights on London as a potential location.

With chef Naganuma on board, the House of Suntory ditched the initial idea of a steakhouse and went with his suggestion for an izakaya, “but with innovation”. 

“We want whisky, wood-fire, spice and smoke. But you cannot do what is typical. I’m doing something for my favourite whisky, and I don’t want to regret it. With Barrel, we are creating something new, a new harmony,” he says.