My Perfect Weekend with chef Damian D’Silva

Who: Singaporean chef Damian D’Silva is widely known as the grandfather of heritage cuisine. He is the founder of restaurant Rempapa, a nod to his Eurasian and Peranakan heritage.

Come September, it will relocate from Park Place Residences at PLQ in Paya Lebar to National Gallery Singapore. The chef will also set up and helm a new dining concept there, Gilmore & Damian D’Silva.

Until April 17, the 68-year-old is offering a special collaborative menu at Amara Singapore’s Cafe Oriental, as part of the second edition of Local Legends at Cafe Oriental. Diners can choose from dishes such as Ayam Buah Keluak, Eurasian Lamb Dhalcha, Brinjal Pacheree, Chi Pow Kai (paper-wrapped chicken) and Eurasian Grilled Snapper. Favourites from Rempapa’s menu – the Kedondong Salad and assorted kueh – will also be available. 

“The perfect weekend is not always possible, but when it happens, it’s always an impromptu event. Planning does help, but as chefs, we always have last-minute requests and commitments that crop up.

When I do get some time to myself, I like to walk around the neighbourhood and see if there are new stalls or shops I may have missed in my morning rush to get to the restaurant.

I also enjoy a quiet bus ride and often take a bus route that leads me to ‘nowhere’.

I find that when I make impromptu trips, they occasionally land me in a neighbourhood that surprises. Hopping on a bus that I have never been on is like a small adventure.

I usually do this once a month, and the last location I went to was Jurong West, which I remember visiting more than 10 years ago. I try not to visit the same place, but sometimes when I find a gem, I tend to revisit the same food stall when I’m in the vicinity.

One such hawker stall is in Jurong West Street 52. It sells Cantonese-style steamed chicken and reminds me of a stall that my grandfather used to take me to in Chinatown when I was a child. The chicken is cooked meticulously, and I always have it with its silky smooth porridge.

My main reason for going there recently was to visit pottery factory Thow Kwang in Lorong Tawas. The pottery is made in-house and the wood kiln is fired up two to three times a year.

My weekend marketing ritual is to visit at least three wet markets. One of my regular spots is Block 58 New Upper Changi Road. There is a fishmonger there who has a regular supply of fish caught in fish traps also known as bubu.

The supply comes in only once a month and there is always a surprise catch. I enjoy communicating with the vendors on what is available now and what has almost vanished from Singapore’s shores. Today, the fish trade has become more commercial and most fish is farmed. I love the surprise when you see an ingredient you last saw ages ago. It’s very emotionally fulfilling.

I also visit the vegetable stalls that sell herbs that were common in the past, but today are purchased only by cooks who have memories of them or need them for a recipe from a long time ago.”