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The tug of war at the top of the world

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Norway is pushing to more firmly assert its sovereignty over Svalbard (above) and fend off foreign influence in the cluster of Arctic islands.

Norway is pushing to more firmly assert its sovereignty over Svalbard (above) and fend off foreign influence in the cluster of Arctic islands.

PHOTO: EMILE DUCKE: NYTIMES

Jeffrey Gettleman, Sarah Hurtes and Louise Krüger

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LONGYEARBYEN, Svalbard – High up in the Arctic, near the North Pole, Svalbard stands alone as a geopolitical unicorn. The cluster of islands is a part of Norway, but is also governed by a unique treaty dating from World War I. It allows just about anyone to take up a life there, visa-free.

For decades, scientists from across the globe alighted at Svalbard’s international research station, set on a dreamy fjord bordered by sharp-toothed mountains. Chinese students zoomed off on snowmobiles with European classmates. Norwegians and Russians held chess tournaments and slurped borscht together when the matches were done.

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