From thrilling matches and colourful fans to amazing briyani, travelling S’poreans cheer ‘grand’ World Cup

Peter Raj (left) travelled to Qatar with a Singaporean party of four. PHOTO: COURTESY OF PETER RAJ

DOHA - Given all that he had read in the news in the months leading up to the World Cup, Mr Peter Raj was expecting a “very rigid event, with strict rules and empty stadiums” when he arrived in Qatar for the tournament.

“However, when we got there, it was the complete opposite,” the 33-year-old, who was one of several Singaporeans who travelled to the Middle East to catch the action, told The Straits Times.

“Supporters were singing and dancing in the street, all clad in national colours from all parts of the world; the fan villages had a big carnival atmosphere with over 30,000 people watching giant screens; and the stunning stadiums we stepped foot in were all filled to capacity.”

Mr Raj, who works in sports marketing, said attending a World Cup had always been a “dream” and he had planned to travel to Russia for the last edition four years ago, but was ultimately not able to given work commitments then.

This time, he made sure he got on the plane. With Qatar being closer to Singapore – it is an eight-hour flight away – it made sense to make the trip, where he caught three games.

‘There’s always something to do’

The World Cup in Qatar is the most compact in history. All eight stadiums are located within a radius of about 55km, meaning travel to more than one venue each day is possible, although Fifa has limited fans and the media to just two games a day, with a four-hour window between kick-offs.

Mr Firdaus Khan, who travelled to Qatar with buddies Imran Abdul and Eddy Edzwan, caught seven games in total, including two in one day – Japan’s incredible 2-1 win over Germany, followed by Belgium’s 1-0 win over World Cup debutants Canada on Nov 23.

The 32-year-old account manager, who said he came to Doha for a “unique World Cup experience” given it is the first tournament held in the Arab world and the first to take place in winter, was not disappointed. “It will probably be the only time we are able to watch multiple live World Cup games on the same day,” he said.

Like Mr Raj, he had expected a tightly controlled, conservative atmosphere but said this “hasn’t been the case”.

“People are able to dress freely. Fans can gather anywhere and have a party. The locals are more than happy to help you especially if you’re struggling with your guthra (traditional Arab headdress),” he said.

This is his second time at the World Cup as a fan. He had watched a game in each round of the tournament in Russia – including the final – and said he had expected a “grand” tournament in Qatar. After all, this is the most expensively organised one, reportedly costing US$220 billion (S$297 billion), over US$200 billion more than the next most expensive edition, Brazil 2014.

He has no doubt that it has lived up to its billing.

“It has certainly delivered on every front,” he said. “There’s always something to do. There’s a music festival every single night while the World Cup is on. Fireworks and drone shows are out of this world. And stadiums are futuristic and most buildings look like they are straight out of a sci-fi film.”

Firdaus Khan (centre) and his buddies Imran Abdul (left) and Eddy Edzwan said this World Cup has “delivered on every front”. PHOTO: COURTESY OF PETER RAJ

Both he and Mr Raj have spent about $5,000 on their respective trips, which includes flights, match tickets, accommodation and food.

Another Singaporean, Mr Jun Tan, spent slightly less – about $3,500 – for his third World Cup, having been to the 2014 and 2018 editions.

The 41-year-old, who works in the Mice (meetings, incentives, conventions and exhibitions) industry, said that meeting friendly migrant workers who served as staff and volunteers was one of the most enjoyable experiences for him in Doha.

Mr Jun Tan (left) said he enjoyed meeting people from all over the world in Qatar. PHOTO: COURTESY OF JUN TAN

Over 2.5 million of Qatar’s 2.9 million population are migrant workers and they also make up much of the Cup’s workforce.

Over the course of his stay, he had conversations with people of many nationalities, from Bangladeshis to Ugandans to Kenyans. In addition, he was able to meet fellow fans from Japan, Mexico, Brazil, Ghana and other nations.

“I don’t normally have many conversations with people from those countries, so I was really happy to be able to meet and chat with them,” he said. “It felt like the World Cup and football have literally united the world.”

However, not everything was smooth sailing for Mr Tan in Qatar.

Some fans reported instances of frustration and disorganisation, particularly early on in the tournament as the host nation grappled with hosting an event of this magnitude for the first time.

For Mr Tan, this meant enduring a wait of over two hours to check in to the Fan Village cabins where he stayed. The accommodation was a disappointing experience. For example, a power trip occurred in the middle of his first night there, leaving him to rely on an open window to keep cool as he slept.

Still, he said: “No doubt, I encountered lots of challenges but I embraced them, and overall I truly enjoyed the experience.

“I have to say, apart from the logistics nightmare, I also have been impressed by some of their set-ups, like the Fan Festival, which is the biggest I have seen at any World Cup I’ve attended.”

‘Just fantastic’

For Mr Raj, who arrived in Qatar with a party of four Singaporeans, being able to watch French star Kylian Mbappe play – and score two goals – in their 2-1 win over Denmark was one of the top highlights.

Equally memorable, he said, was the briyani he had in a traditional restaurant at Qatar’s famous Souq Waqif marketplace, which he swears was “the most amazing” he has had.

Peter Raj (second from right) said the briyani he and his friends had in a restaurant at Qatar’s famous Souq Waqif marketplace was “the most amazing” he has had. PHOTO: COURTESY OF PETER RAJ

Indeed, the off-pitch memories are what Mr Chris Wong enjoyed most about his maiden World Cup experience as well.

The 59-year-old pilot, who forked out $15,000 so he and wife Jane could catch four group-stage matches in Qatar, said: “To me, what made this trip special is just seeing everyone from all over the world in one place.

“Everyone here loves football and you can tell that the only reason they are here is that they want to enjoy themselves... There are no troublemakers. Everything for us, from start to finish, was just fantastic.”

Pilot Chris Wong (right) with fans from Brazil and Japan at the iconic Souq Waqif marketplace in Qatar. PHOTO: COURTESY OF CHRIS WONG

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