Home in focus: Upholding a tea tradition for over 90 years

For 93 years, Mr Kenry Peh's family have sold tea that they blend and pack by hand using traditional methods, right in the store they have always owned. The Straits Times takes a look at what goes into creating that magical thimble of Chinese tea.

Upon receiving the tea leaves, there is a pre-blending sampling process to ensure that the quality is up to expectations. Weighing, timing and temperature, and the precision involved, are key elements in helping to determine the taste of the tea.
Upon receiving the tea leaves, there is a pre-blending sampling process to ensure that the quality is up to expectations. Weighing, timing and temperature, and the precision involved, are key elements in helping to determine the taste of the tea. ST PHOTO: SYAMIL SAPARI
(From left) Mr Kenry Peh, 49, a fourth-generation "teaman" or owner, is joined by his cousin Peh Hong Kee, 54, and another employee Yuen Eng Wah, 48, during the sampling process to determine whether the tea is up to standard.
(From left) Mr Kenry Peh, 49, a fourth-generation "teaman" or owner, is joined by his cousin Peh Hong Kee, 54, and another employee Yuen Eng Wah, 48, during the sampling process to determine whether the tea is up to standard. ST PHOTO: SYAMIL SAPARI
Mr Kenry Peh attending to the traditional tea-blending process known as "taiji in the tea" because the hand movements for blending the tea leaves are similar to those used in taiji. The cartons surrounding Mr Peh are filled with both pre-and post-blended
Mr Kenry Peh attending to the traditional tea-blending process known as "taiji in the tea" because the hand movements for blending the tea leaves are similar to those used in taiji. The cartons surrounding Mr Peh are filled with both pre-and post-blended tea leaves, which are left inside for as short as two days or as long as two weeks, depending on the blends and desired taste. ST PHOTOS: SYAMIL SAPARI
A tray of blended tea leaves about to undergo the firing process. The small empty spaces in the tray represent the five directions - north south, east, west and centre - and are meant to aid ventilation during the firing process. Without ventilation, the
A tray of blended tea leaves about to undergo the firing process. The small empty spaces in the tray represent the five directions - north south, east, west and centre - and are meant to aid ventilation during the firing process. Without ventilation, the heat would not be spread evenly. ST PHOTOS: SYAMIL SAPARI
Pek Sin Choon employee Peh Bee Leng (in black), 78, wraps blended tea leaves in paper packets the traditional way, while Madam Lim Boh Tan (in yellow), 82, packs them into a tin container. Both women are Mr Kenry Peh's aunts, and Madam Lim is the company'
Pek Sin Choon employee Peh Bee Leng (in black), 78, wraps blended tea leaves in paper packets the traditional way, while Madam Lim Boh Tan (in yellow), 82, packs them into a tin container. Both women are Mr Kenry Peh's aunts, and Madam Lim is the company's oldest employee. Pek Sin Choon chose to stick with traditional methods to preserve the skills passed down through generations. Up to 2,000 packs of tea can be hand-wrapped each day. ST PHOTOS: SYAMIL SAPARI
Cups of tea with brews in different shades of brown are lined up against various packets of tea with designs that include a juggler and a girl playing ping pong.
Cups of tea with brews in different shades of brown are lined up against various packets of tea with designs that include a juggler and a girl playing ping pong. ST PHOTOS: SYAMIL SAPARI
Tin containers are traditionally used to hold the packets of tea and they continue to be favoured today as they are able to remain airtight and thus keep the tea leaves at their freshest.
Tin containers are traditionally used to hold the packets of tea and they continue to be favoured today as they are able to remain airtight and thus keep the tea leaves at their freshest. ST PHOTOS: SYAMIL SAPARI
Madam Lim Boh Tan takes a break after a day's worth of work wrapping tea packs. The Chinese characters written in orange on the cupboard behind her are the names of traditional house blends, some of which have been discontinued.
Madam Lim Boh Tan takes a break after a day's worth of work wrapping tea packs. The Chinese characters written in orange on the cupboard behind her are the names of traditional house blends, some of which have been discontinued. ST PHOTOS: SYAMIL SAPARI
Locals and tourists, young and old, walk into Pek Sin Choon in Mosque Street to buy tea despite the company mainly operating as a wholesale distributor, and each demographic has its preferred blend of tea.
Locals and tourists, young and old, walk into Pek Sin Choon in Mosque Street to buy tea despite the company mainly operating as a wholesale distributor, and each demographic has its preferred blend of tea. ST PHOTOS: SYAMIL SAPARI
Chinese tea leaves
Chinese tea leaves ST PHOTOS: SYAMIL SAPARI
Syamil Sapari Photojournalist
Updated
Oct 22, 2018, 10:06 AM
Published
Oct 22, 2018, 05:00 AM
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In busy, ever-changing Chinatown, one shop in Mosque Street has remained in place for nearly a century, overlooked by the tourists who throng the busy streets looking for souvenirs.

Behind the unprepossessing exterior, Mr Kenry Peh and his employees are hard at work in a business his family has conducted for four generations.

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A version of this article appeared in the print edition of The Straits Times on October 22, 2018, with the headline Home in focus: Upholding a tea tradition for over 90 years. Subscribe

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