Two flights across Sumatra and a 21/2-hour car ride later, I arrive in Sorake Bay, a small beach town at the southern tip of the Indonesian island of Nias.
The low-profile, laid-back vibe of the place, where tall palm trees and "losmens" - local lingo for hostels - dot the coast, is a stark contrast with the monstrous waves that make this one of the most famous surf destinations in the world.
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