Recipe book shows how migrant workers add richness to Singapore’s palate

SINGAPORE - Mr Mohammad Sabuj’s cooking is not just a bridge back to his home in Rangpur, Bangladesh, but also a treat that fellow workers in his dormitory look forward to each weekend.

While the 38-year-old offshore marine supervisor prepares food such as fried hilsa fish and shemai (a sweet milk vermicelli dessert) for himself on work days, he spends up to two hours each Sunday whipping up more involved Bengali dishes such as changri macher malai (prawn curry) and mutton tehari for his compatriots.

Similar to briyani but with smaller pieces of meat tossed with rice, Mr Sabuj’s recipe for mutton tehari is one of 18 recipes featured in a new recipe book launched on Dec 4 by the Ministry of Manpower’s Assurance, Care and Engagement group.

Called Our Migrants’ Kitchen, it was launched ahead of International Migrants Day, which is commemorated every Dec 18.

Apart from spotlighting the unique recipes and culinary traditions different migrants bring here with them – from savouries such as mote hin gar (fish noodle soup) to sweets like kue mendut (glutinous coconut rice cakes) – the book includes stories of how migrant workers and migrant domestic workers here use food to connect with their families, friends and other communities.

For instance, Mr Sabuj’s recipe uses mutton instead of beef, which allows him to share the dish with the diverse residents in his dorm.

Having worked in Singapore since he was 23, Mr Sabuj said cooking the dishes that his mother always prepared for the family is how he remembers home.

It is also a means to assure his parents that he is taking good care of himself. Before he eats, he sends a photo of his meal to his mother, as their daily calls always include the question: “What did you eat today?”

Earlier in 2023, during Hari Raya Haji, he prepared 10kg each of prawns, mutton, chicken and fish for the Muslim and Hindu dormitory residents and staff. He has done this yearly since 2017, except during the Covid-19 pandemic.

“Everyone always asks me to cook because it’s tasty. I also like to cook and eat together with everyone,” said Mr Sabuj. “When people taste and say it’s nice, I feel happy.”

Another migrant worker featured in the book is Mr Thayumanaran Nagarethinam, 33, who came to Singapore from India in 2010.

The electrician believes food is medicine, having been taught by his parents, who are farmers, the nutritional and medicinal values of various foods since he was young.

He learnt to cook around the age of 12, when he and his friends would have potlucks together.

In the book, he shares his recipe for nandu rasam (crab soup), commonly prepared by Tamil families in India and Singapore to treat cold, cough and fever.

The black pepper and cumin used help to clear phlegm, and the dish also eases body aches, said Mr Naga in Tamil.

He cooks the dish for his roommates and friends at his dormitory when they feel ill.

“When they drink the soup, they say it helps relieve their headache instantly, and their bodies feel refreshed and cooled down,” he said.

At the book’s launch at Our Tampines Hub on Dec 4, Senior Minister of State for Manpower Koh Poh Koon said the book is a testament to the migrant community’s resilience, dedication and sacrifices to build a better future for their loved ones.

In the process, they contributed to Singapore’s economy and the building of Singapore, he said. “Through this book, we can gain a better understanding and appreciation of our migrant community.”

Selected stories from the book are part of a multimedia showcase at Our Tampines Hub from Dec 4 to Dec 10.

The exhibition will feature various initiatives on food and cultural exchanges with the migrant worker community here. There is also an appreciation wall for members of the public to leave words of appreciation for the migrant workers and domestic workers here.

The recipe book is available for download

here

.

Besides English, it is also available in Bengali, Mandarin and Tamil.

It will be distributed to community partners such as non-governmental organisations, dormitories, schools and community libraries.

Other International Migrants Day events coming up include a picnic at Gardens By The Bay on Dec 10 organised by the Centre for Domestic Employees, as well as a celebratory event on Dec 17 in Birch Road in Little India with food, games and performances.