Kebaya’s Unesco recognition will grow appreciation for it among S’poreans: Cultural groups

SINGAPORE – The kebaya’s inscription on Unesco’s intangible cultural heritage list paves the way for more Singaporeans to gain a deeper appreciation of the traditional garment, said cultural groups and kebaya designers.

On Dec 4,

the garment was successfully inscribed

on Unesco’s Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, following a joint submission by Singapore, Brunei, Indonesia, Malaysia and Thailand.

Generally taking the form of an

open-fronted upper garment made from a variety of fabrics

, the kebaya is worn by groups across South-east Asia, and in Singapore is most commonly associated with the Malay and Peranakan communities.

Mr Alvin Teo, president of Peranakan culture non-profit Gunong Sayang Association, said Unesco’s recognition is important for Singapore as it underscores the kebaya’s role in the nation’s multicultural heritage, providing greater visibility and awareness of local traditions, including Peranakan culture.

“The inscription helps preserve and promote kebaya-related practices for future generations while fostering a deeper sense of pride in our cultural identity,” he added.

Mrs Genevieve Jeffs, president of The Peranakan Association Singapore, said the inscription is a boon for heritage businesses, as heightened awareness fuelled by the inscription “will likely lead to greater cultural acceptance and renewed interest in purchasing kebayas among both local and regional audiences”.

She added that Unesco’s recognition is only the start of a longer journey to ensure that the kebaya “remains not just a symbol of the past but a living, thriving part of our identity”.

Mrs Jeffs suggested that programmes for students can be developed to teach them about the history and craftsmanship behind the garment, while experiences such as kebaya try-on sessions or hands-on embroidery workshops will allow more to develop a personal connection to the garment.

Agreeing, Gunong Sayang Association’s first vice-president Frederick Soh said that “kebayas have to be worn to be admired”.

He suggested that the annual Racial Harmony Day – celebrated largely in schools – can be commemorated among adults as well, so that there are more opportunities for various ethnic groups to showcase their kebayas.

On school outreach, the National Heritage Board (NHB) said on Dec 4 that it will launch a digital game and a resource kit for primary school pupils in 2025 to pique their interest and foster awareness about the garment.

Mr Sufiyanto Amat Sopingi, co-founder of Kebaya Societe, a social media account showcasing vintage fashion in the Malay-Indonesian world, said he hopes the game and resources will portray the diversity of and variations between kebaya styles.

“Many today think of kebayas as made of lightweight fabric and highly embellished, but there are at least five different styles from different time periods, in varying silhouettes, textiles, and for different occasions,” said the fashion designer.

He added that the responsibility of transmitting and safeguarding heritage should not fall just on the shoulders of state agencies and arts groups, as heritage should begin at home.

“Parents play an important role of modelling cultural practices and traditions for their children,” he said.

Noting that the kebaya is Singapore’s first multinational nomination to the list, Minister for Culture, Community and Youth Edwin Tong said on Dec 4 that its inscription is a chance to promote cross-cultural understanding and unity in Singapore and across the region.

Prior to the submission of the joint nomination in March 2023, NHB had organised six focus group discussions for artisans, cultural association representatives and researchers to seek their views on the potential nomination, while Malaysia – which mooted the joint nomination – and Indonesia hosted workshops for community and state representatives to work on the nomination file.

Malay dance choreographer and Cultural Medallion recipient Som Said, who has designed kebayas for her dance troupe Sri Warisan and attended NHB’s sessions, said she gained a more in-depth understanding of the kebaya’s use among various ethnic groups in Singapore during the discussions.

“Various groups have different histories and backgrounds, and even occasions for wearing the kebaya, and these sessions helped us to learn about one another’s practices and appreciate each other more,” she added.

Kebaya Societe’s Mr Sufiyanto, who was among Singapore’s delegates at the workshop hosted by Indonesia, said he learnt more about the kebaya’s use in Thailand – a country that “did not automatically come to mind” for his research previously, given the garment’s primary links to Malay, Indonesian and Peranakan communities.

He hopes that with Unesco’s recognition, the kebaya can make a mark on the international stage at events such as fashion weeks in Paris and New York.

Citing the kimono, a Japanese garment, Mr Sufiyanto said: “It has been worn globally with various adaptations, but is always linked to Japan. Perhaps the same can one day be said of the kebaya and South-east Asia.”