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For the love of bak kwa

It's hot, painstaking work - and former butcher Ong Geok Hoo does it all himself

The rich, smoky aroma of barbecued meat wafts from a small shop as I turn a corner in Geylang Road on a sunny weekday afternoon.

The smell makes me think of Chinese New Year, except it is late November.

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A version of this article appeared in the print edition of The Straits Times on January 20, 2020, with the headline 'For the love of bak kwa'. Subscribe