For the love of bak kwa

It's hot, painstaking work - and former butcher Ong Geok Hoo does it all himself

The rich, smoky aroma of barbecued meat wafts from a small shop as I turn a corner in Geylang Road on a sunny weekday afternoon.

The smell makes me think of Chinese New Year, except it is late November.

Please or to continue reading the full article.

Get unlimited access to all stories at $0.99/month

  • Latest headlines and exclusive stories
  • In-depth analyses and award-winning multimedia content
  • Get access to all with our no-contract promotional package at only $0.99/month for the first 3 months*

*Terms and conditions apply.

A version of this article appeared in the print edition of The Straits Times on January 20, 2020, with the headline 'For the love of bak kwa'. Subscribe