What happens to the chef when a world-famous restaurant like Noma closes?

Top chefs may not find satisfaction going quietly into history.

Noma won’t close till the end of 2024. But all that doesn’t mean chef Rene Redzepi can’t change his mind, says the author. PHOTO: REUTERS
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Copenhagen became a place of pilgrimage for global gourmands because of Noma and its chef Rene Redzepi.

The news that he will close its doors as a restaurant at the end of 2024 brought me back to the afternoon of Sept 7, 2019. I’d just had lunch there with my friends Ferran and Isabel Adria, who were visiting from Barcelona.

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