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What happens to the chef when a world-famous restaurant like Noma closes?

Top chefs may not find satisfaction going quietly into history.

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FILE PHOTO: Rene Redzepi, the head chef of Noma in Copenhagen, talks during an interview with Reuters at Noma at Mandarin Oriental Tokyo February 10, 2015. REUTERS/Yuya Shino/File Photo

Noma won’t close till the end of 2024. But all that doesn’t mean chef Rene Redzepi can’t change his mind, says the author.

PHOTO: REUTERS

Howard Chua-Eoan

Copenhagen became a place of pilgrimage for global gourmands because of Noma and its chef Rene Redzepi.

The news that he will close its doors as a restaurant at the end of 2024 brought me back to the afternoon of Sept 7, 2019. I’d just had lunch there with my friends Ferran and Isabel Adria, who were visiting from Barcelona.

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