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How Japanese does that bowl of ramen need to be?

Like pizza, the noodle dish is an ever-evolving cross-border work of innovation.

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Chilli crab ramen - an example of how Ippudo adapts its menu to cater to customers in more than 100 shops outside of Japan.

Chilli crab ramen - an example of how Ippudo adapts its menu to cater to customers in more than 100 shops outside of Japan.

PHOTO: IPPUDO

Howard Chua-Eoan

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One of my favourite London restaurant districts is about to welcome an outpost from a storied ramen chef – news that makes me nostalgic for New York City. That’s because, for weeks, I once lived on the brothless noodles – a style known as mazemen – luxuriating in a thick roasted garlic sauce, sold at the Gotham West Market foodcourt in Manhattan.

It was a tumultuous time in my life: I was churning out book chapters on my laptop while dealing with a combative co-author.

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