SINGAPORE (THE NEW PAPER) - The dining scene at Resorts World Sentosa (RWS) has seen ups and downs.
When the local Michelin list was first released in 2016, the integrated resort had four restaurants and seven stars on the list. Last year, it had none.
Then there were the closures, most notably that of Singapore's only three-Michelin-starred Joel Robuchon Restaurant.
But RWS' latest, Table65, helmed by Dutch chef Richard van Oostenbrugge, could restore the shine.
He was a chef at the two-starred Bord'Eau Restaurant Gastronomique and his new restaurant in Amsterdam, Restaurant 212, was recently awarded a star by the Michelin Guide.
Table65 is for those who want fine dining without the stuffiness. The service is excellent, the place looks amazing and you get tableside light displays worthy of a Universal Studios ride.
You can choose between an eight-course Experiential Menu ($218)and a five-course Discovery Menu ($148), or order from the a la carte menu if you're a small eater.
It does overwhelm, but the moment you are perched on the stool and the light switch is on, it's all systems go.
It begins with a trio of fish, with cold smoked horse mackerel, jelly of tomato consomme with marinated anchovy and cured mackerel.
The first taste of the glorious jelly sets the tone, jolting me with its brightness.
The 'Os a moelle' ($29) is a visual treat, with veal tartare encased in a translucent bone made out of the concentrated stock of smoked herring.
For additional luxury, it is topped with Beluga caviar.
The Ravioli of Belon oyster ($42) may not be as pretty, but it is superior in taste.
The veloute sauce has to work hard to pull off the marriage with veal shank, shellfish juice and oyster puree, but the pleasant hint of hazelnut does come through. A touch of burnt lemon is also thrown in the mix. This is a true one-bite sensation.
For me, the menu is at its weakest when it came to the binchotan-roasted Toh Thye San duck ($34), served with a dark chocolate mole.
This feels heavy and overwrought, and perhaps can do with an element less.
The signature dessert is Apple ($29). The sugar glass dome is probably too whimsical for some, and I would rather dive straight into the delicious Granny Smith apple sherbet.
A meal at Table65 is very good, but you do wonder after if it could have been even better.
While everyone's trying and you don't want to be the negative Nelly, you will probably leave feeling you could have actually had a dazzling experience.
Hotel Michael, Level 1,
Resorts World Sentosa
Thursday to Sunday, 6.30pm to 10.30pm