Chef Sebastian Ng is not a flashy character by any stretch of the imagination. But I have always thought of him as someone whom I can rely on to cook a solid meal, without frivolous bells and whistles. He established himself first at Ember and is now chef-owner of Venue By Sebastian in Downtown Gallery.

His food, and that of chef de cuisine Jonathan Lee, is well-thought through and perfect for coronavirus times. Options include buttermilk fried chicken, grilled pork, steaks and braised lamb. They sound basic, but have little touches that elevate them.

My meal starts on a high note with Taramasalata ($14) and it is not the meze as you know it, with the bread or potato base. Instead, it has thick and rich labne or strained yogurt cheese, topped with crispy quinoa, mentaiko XO sauce and tobiko.

The appetiser comes with two slices of sourdough toast bearing char marks. The toast has gone soft in transit, but the charred flavour perks it up. I stick the bread in the toaster oven for a couple of minutes and then tear off pieces to scoop up dollops of that lightly spicy fish roe spread, unable to stop myself.

There is also silky Foie Gras Mousse ($12), which I inhale very indelicately. #sorrynotsorry.

My main course of Chilean Seabass ($36) is easy to love. The thick fillet of fish is perfectly cooked and the mushroom-bacon ragout served alongside is earthy and good.

However, I object to the truffle oil in the truffle yuzu butter sauce and, after detecting it, leave it well alone. Truffle oil is a crime against nature. A bunch of chemicals cannot possibly be better than the real thing.

But what really thrills me is the Farro ($15), which I order almost as an afterthought. Well, it is front and centre on my radar now.

Farro is an ancient grain with a beautiful, nutty flavour and I have cooked it several times. It takes skill - and stirring - to get it creamy like arborio rice in risotto, and Venue has done that.

Each grain is juicy and pops in the most delightful way. The mushroom-konbu butter, poached egg and Parmigiano Reggiano add richness but there is no danger of food coma because none of these elements overwhelm the dish.

However, I find the slices of raw onion confronting. If you do, too, simply brush them aside, like I do.

What I have noticed is how much care restaurants put into presenting their food for delivery and takeaway, and often, the crew take time to pen a note of thanks or slip in a complimentary treat with each order.

Mine comes with crisp cookies studded with raisins and almonds. It takes all my willpower not to demolish the whole bag. They are ever so moreish and I live to nosh.

They do not have to do any of this. For those of us who love restaurants, supporting our favourite ones during this difficult time is, I believe, our duty.

To be rewarded with cookies is really icing on the cake. Who needs dessert?