(THE BUSINESS TIMES) - There were times, as we watched Patrick Heuberger lovingly snip off a section of coiled Toulouse sausage behind the deli counter of Huber's Butchery, that we had to restrain from blurting out: "What's a chef like you doing in a place like this?"

Nothing against the fancy meat shop nor his simple desire to have a real life with his family. We are just selfish diners and since he left Bistro du Sommelier and closed Casse Croute in a Clementi condominium, there has been a gap in the market for the kind of rustic, home-style French cooking that he is known for.