New highs in Australia
Fresh experiences abound in Sydney and beyond, from standing atop a cable car among mountains to sipping zero-waste cocktails
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Australia is always new for travel lovers.
That becomes thrillingly real when I stand on the roof of a cable car, high above the eucalyptus forest below.
Safely harnessed, I admire the 360-degree vistas of endless mountains. Super-fine mist swirls up from the valley floor 270m below.
This is an all-new perspective of the Blue Mountains, a beloved escape for Sydneysiders. The ride, a global first, debuted just as Australia opened its borders to vaccinated visitors on Feb 21.
To spend a week in Sydney and the nearby Blue Mountains and Central Coast is to feel renewed after a long bout of stay-home pandemic blues.
The new and the novel abound in the eastern state of New South Wales: entering a cool zero-waste bar in an emergent Sydney enclave; savouring the freshest oysters at an in-water table on the coast; and draping my legs over the rim of twilight-tinged mountains.
As the world navigates concurrent crises such as Omicron, the Ukraine war and climate change, I also remember the timely wisdom of an Aboriginal Australian I meet on a rainforest trek. He respects crises as part of the circle of destruction and renewal.
1 BLUE MOUNTAINS: ON A HIGH
Beyond Skyway is the ultimate cable-car ride where guests like me, heart pounding, ascend the rooftop of an idling gondola.
This is the latest attraction within Scenic World (scenicworld.com.au) where I whiz up and down the world's steepest railway and stroll among treetops on elevated walkways, among other high-altitude quests.
When Scenic World closes for the day, rooftop adventurers are fitted with custom-designed full-body harnesses. We take breathalyser tests too.
Up to four guests get into the cable car, which trundles a couple of minutes from the station and parks in the middle of Jamison Valley. Up on the roof, nothing - not even glass - impedes the inspiring view and time slows down.
Zero-waste bar, fresh culinary pleasures, fun cocktails: Check out these places when you are in Australia's New South Wales state
RE-is a zero-waste bar that mixes imperfect ingredients for perfect cocktails. The decor uses recycled milk cartons for tabletops, charcoal from bushfires for a graphic and an array of salvaged objects.
Yet no one at the game-changing bar (wearere.com.au) talks up the eco-credentials, preferring that guests almost chance upon zero-waste ideals while having a good time.
It opened in February last year in a repurposed locomotive workshop within Eveleigh, an eclectic Sydney enclave. What a flawless choice of location that mirrors the bar's green ethos, I think as I step inside.
I choose Saint Peter from the menu - it seems a little mad for someone to devise a drink with Murray Cod fat, white rum, mango, coconut, osmanthus flower, katsuobushi (a spirit crafted from bonito flakes) and "ocean honey", which turns out to be seaweed and honey.
Why fish fat? Bartender Matt Dale says: "Murray Cod fat is mixed with white rum overnight for a special texture - a layer of oiliness which is lovely."
No hint of fishy murk in my vibrant drink. I find out later that the fish fat is a by-product from inventive fish-centric eatery Saint Peter (www.saintpeter.com.au), which also experiments with it for caramel.
The ingredients in other RE-drinks include food that is routinely tossed - the rind from pecorino cheese, spent beer grains and surplus whole fruit from Sydney Markets, a group of wholesale and retail markets.
Founder Matt Whiley, an award-winning English bartender, is clear that the bar need not hard-sell the zero-waste movement, even if the ambitious goal is to cut food waste in venues by 80 per cent. He reasons: "Going to a bar is about having fun. You don't want a lesson. But some people love it when they find out that we use pineapple fibre and mushrooms in the design."
And so he is inspired by the imperfect, the wilted and the rejected, and believes change can happen - venue by venue and drinker by drinker.
My RE-bar visit is a fresh facet of a week-long trip to Sydney and its nearby Blue Mountains and Central Coast, where I discover other novel restaurants and bars.
IMAGINATIVE SEAFOOD SET: LANA, SYDNEY
Chic Lana, lodged in an old wool store and sensuously designed, serves zero-waste Mediterranean-inspired seafood and season-driven dishes. The set menu is good value at A$79 (S$80) for 10 gorgeously plated dishes.
Our dinner includes a petite charred leek tart and ink tortelli doused in a supreme coral-prawn broth. And I love the pair of sweet-salty desserts, especially the caramelised pineapple layered with miso ice cream and topped with sculptural yuba or beancurd skin.
Info: lana.sydney
SULTRY SICILIAN BAR: APOLLONIA, SYDNEY
A subterranean bar set in an imagined Sicilian bandits' den, Apollonia is old-world romantic escapism with a modern spirit.
Lots of negronis on its menu, and also cool twists on Italian cocktails.
Baciami, which Google translates as Kiss Me, is a scarlet concoction of un-aged tequila, beetroot grenadine, rose water, fresh lemon and wattleseed, a traditional Aboriginal Australian staple. There is a sweet delicacy, with an underlying robustness like many drinks here.
Info: apollonia.sydney
AUSTRALIAN BREAKFAST RESTAURANT: BILLS DOUBLE BAY, SYDNEY
Popular for breakfast, bills exudes the sunny Australian spirit.
I go for its signature ricotta hotcakes served with banana and honeycomb butter - lots of fluffy goodness. The toasted rye is rich and piquant with avocado, poached egg, chilli and coriander.
It is a casual-chic crowd here, lingering over great coffee. Sydney likes to contend with Melbourne as Australia's coffee capital. Restaurant bills has outposts elsewhere in Sydney and overseas.
PLAYFUL COCKTAILS: DEAN & NANCY ON 22, SYDNEY
As we head to our table for pre-dinner drinks, the aura is beguiling with a twilight sky, soaring windows and a celebratory vibe. I get a Rosella, a cocktail of Absolut Vodka, honey, rock melon, gentian and, wait, an aromatic bubble. The hostess gleefully shoots a giant bubble from a "gun" to top my drink. Kiss it, she says. The bubble bursts and everyone cheers. Forget the pandemic in this bar, which may have the most playful cocktails in town.
CAKES AND COFFEE FOR THE 'GRAM: THE GROUNDS OF ALEXANDRIA CAFE, SYDNEY
The vibrant cafe is embedded in urban sanctuary The Grounds Of Alexandria, an Instagrammer's delight with flowery alleys and immersive restaurants.
I get a deconstructed mocha. Pour a thimble of espresso into a chocolate-glazed glass and add frothy milk for a bespoke mocha. It pairs perfectly with The Secret Garden cake - an almond sponge with apple custard, covered with honey buttercream and dainty pressed flowers.
Info: thegrounds.com.au
HYPERLOCAL SAVVY: BLAQ, BLACKHEATH (BLUE MOUNTAINS)
Blaq, helmed by Mate Herceg, showcases hyperlocal produce, starting with drinks that use native botanicals and locally sourced spirits and liquors.
My Mountain Mary is a twist on the classic Bloody Mary, with a double shot of Karu Chipotle Vodka, smoked tomato juice, Worcestershire sauce, celery, olive and pickle. We experiment with charred cucumber and order a proper steak, a 450g Rangers Valley bistecca. Just the place to chill after a mountain trek.
Info: www.thekyah.com.au/blaq
CHOCOLATE CATHEDRAL: JOSOPHAN'S FINE CHOCOLATES, LEURA (BLUE MOUNTAINS)
The chocolate boutique, which recently moved into a repurposed church, has everything from vegan chocs to a table of Rocky Road.
From its ganache showcase, I pick a piece of dark chocolate with a fresh raspberry centre and edible ruby-like shimmer, then a dark chocolate ganache infused with fresh mint leaves and orange.
Most eye-catching is a corset of chocolate - owner Jodie van der Velden has created such corsets for charity.
Info: www.josophans.com.au
HIGH TEA, DREAMY MOUNTAINS: THE WINTERGARDEN AT HYDRO MAJESTIC, MEDLOW BATH (BLUE MOUNTAINS)
It is nostalgic, enjoying the grand tradition of high tea in Wintergarden within a heritage-listed hotel. The restaurant is plush and, from here, the Blue Mountains are dreamy.
It is also multicultural. One of the high-tea choices is Eastern, with Vietnamese rice rolls and finger sandwiches filled with curried egg.
Scones are a must. Sip a flute of sparkling wine and step back in time.
Like us, our wine glasses are tethered. I sip a non-alcoholic pineapple-citrus blend topped with a pomegranate swirl.
"The world is opening up and people want new experiences," says Mr Peter Schefe, our rooftop guide.
During the pandemic, everything stopped for a season in New South Wales, the most populous state. Even state borders closed.
The Scenic World team - passionate about the environment and having fun - had time for reinvention. Its new ride encapsulates this spirit. "It sells itself," Mr Schefe reckons.
Elsewhere in the Blue Mountains, a 90-minute drive from Sydney in our driver-guide Michael Gan's van, photojournalist Gin Tay and I seek lookout points for perfect shots.
The mountains really look bluish to us. Oil droplets emitted by the vast eucalyptus forests combine with dust and water vapour, creating an illusion of blue haze.
Echo Point, near Katoomba town, is an ideal corner to view the Three Sisters pinnacles. Alternative Aboriginal legends surround this dramatic rock formation. The popular version is a sad romance - three young women fell in forbidden love with men from another tribe and were turned into a trio of peaks.
Lincoln's Rock, near another mountain town Wentworth Falls, also mesmerises. For the 'Gram, people sit on a rock ledge that appears to be the edge of a cliff, though it is safer than it looks.
Sitting on the rim and gazing at the wilderness, I imagine that the open frontiers here silently echo our new freedom to travel this year. Australia, the world's only continent-country, does that to you.
2 CENTRAL COAST: IN-WATER OYSTER FEAST AND STORIES
We move from the mountains to the coast, where we savour oysters at an in-water table.
Wearing waders that look like hip-high boots crossed with workman overalls, I follow third-generation oyster farmer Sheridan Beaumont onto a tiny jetty and we step into the sea.
I am perfectly dry in my waders when I stand at the table and start my oyster-shucking lesson. Twist the tip of a small shucking knife into the bivalve, wiggle and separate the hinge between the shells.
Make sure the oyster's curved side holding its natural briny liquor is cupped in your hand, so none of it drips away.
As I speed-write these steps, I remember my glacial pace of shucking. Thankfully, Ms Beaumont and her mate are pros and soon there is a luscious mound of Sydney Rock Oysters, which I dip into elderflower-laced vinaigrette - her family recipe.
She describes the flavour: "Creamy and metallic with an ocean liquor." This novice agrees and we clink wine glasses.
I also learn that the Hawkesbury River, which runs from the base of the Blue Mountains to the sea, is so big that oysters farmed in each zone are uniquely flavoured, much like how terroir shapes the taste of wine grapes.
Indeed, she compares sweet-salty oysters cultivated in brinier water to a subtle Merlot. Oysters grown in sea-grass terrain may have vegetal, earthy nuances that remind her of full-flavoured Shiraz.
This Immerse Yourself package costs A$195 (S$196) a person and includes a boat ride to the oyster leases for a guided tour.
A variation, the Oyster Elegance experience, costs $295 a person and the highlight is a champagne seafood lunch. She adds the lunch to our itinerary - grilled barramundi paired with spinach-walnut-feta salad, more oysters and a bottle of bubbly.
On our private beach that hugs a sheltered bay - the ocean in front of us and the bush behind - we have fleeting moments to relish our idyllic white-tablecloth lunch.
A storm is brewing and we must return to shore. On the rollicking boat ride back, Ms Beaumont spies her father heading out to move oyster trays out of harm's way.
"It's dangerous," she worries. Daughterly love prompts her to jump ship and join him.
As she exits, I think about how wild and magnificent Australia is, and how the young woman has persevered through many vagaries of farming.
For more than 15 years, Ms Beaumont, a mother of four and a chiropractor who is studying to be a medical doctor, has grown and supplied oysters to the Sydney Fish Market. The city is a breezy 45-minute drive away.
More recently, to diversify, she started Sydney Oyster Farm Tours (www.sydneyoystertours.com) at Mooney Mooney on the Hawkesbury River.
Encountering people and places that inspire and endear is a significant joy of travel. That day - and our return to Australia as the pandemic endgame hopefully speeds up - is all of that.
Australia is always new. Go to str.sg/aus22
3 SYDNEY: INDOOR ZOO, VIVID CITY
Australia abounds in nature's gifts - from beaches to wildlife - even in cities like Sydney.
We plan to take a coastal walk and cap it with lunch at the beachside-chic North Bondi Fish restaurant. But rain is forecast for Sydney.
From experience, the best plans can unspool in a flash. So we have pre-planned rainy-day options and decide on an intimate indoor zoo that displays Australia's Big Five: the koala, kangaroo, crocodile, wombat and platypus.
At Wild Life Sydney Zoo (www.wildlifesydney.com.au), a huge part of the appeal lies in how the keepers chat with visitors and convey the wonders of wildlife.
As we reach the koala enclosures, seven pairs of unblinking eyes follow us. These furballs are like curious toddlers - wide-eyed with strangers, food snatchers, ever ready for bedtime.
Koalas may sleep 20 hours a day, but we catch them at their playful best. Head keeper Marina Betrus says her koalas have distinct personalities. "Scarlet is the boss. She pushes other koalas out of the way to eat or sleep."
On cue, high-energy Scarlet turfs another koala off her tree perch.
The bears have a choice of 10 to 15 eucalyptus species for meals, instead of five or so in the wild. "They have room service every day," Ms Betrus quips.
A 4m saltwater crocodile fascinates me. Rocky's favourite dish is "very expensive barramundi". Chicken is too fat for him.
He loves the massage from an underwater pipe in his habitat where the water is a tropical 30 deg C.
Crocs are intelligent, Ms Betrus says. "They can navigate back to their territory when they are rehomed." One croc took nine months to do that, navigating by the stars to get home to the Northern Territory from Queensland.
I look at Rocky with new respect and wonder if he will one day hotfoot it to Queensland, where he was found on a beach.
She adds: "Back in the day, movies portrayed crocodiles as scary and angry. But, yes, they like having a spa bath too."
With such stories, the zoo builds connections between animals and humans.
That morning, I also encounter the ever-nibbling platypus, green budgies that flit in flocks, snakes that cuddle one another.
The zoo is a window into Sydney. So is a water-taxi ride (www.watertaxis.com.au) from a Darling Harbour wharf to Manly, which is hyperlocal, with scenes of Australians playing beach volleyball or lingering at cafes.
On our urban voyage, the boatman cues us to ready our cameras, and we capture twin icons - the Sydney Opera House and the Sydney Harbour Bridge - in a single theatrical frame.
All classics can be experienced anew, as a return to Australia reveals.
AUSTRALIA: NEW AGAIN
The rain is incessant during our journey in late February and early March. Soon after we fly home, Australia's eastern floods are declared a national emergency, though the floods have generally cleared now.
The Sydney of my imagination is gloriously sunny. Weather data shows that it enjoys 300 days of visible sunshine if we include partly cloudy days.
Yet the weather cannot fully cloud the appeal of New South Wales, or most destinations, when we nimbly rework plans to discover the land. Moreover, flexibility is key in a pandemic.
I also think about how Australia abounds with culinary pleasures, cool hotels, secret vistas and a flurry of fun travel experiences created during the two pandemic years - all making the country new for globetrotters again.
•The stories are brought to you by Tourism Australia.
