Japan’s Shimanami Kaido is a stunning cycling route with surprisingly good food 

HIROSHIMA, Japan – Many diners flirt with danger by consuming the highly toxic puffer fish. I push my culinary boundaries a notch further by popping its sperm sac into my mouth.

The rich, creamy texture is one of the culinary delights I unearth during a cycling journey across rural sea towns in Japan on one of the world’s most scenic bicycle rides – the Shimanami Kaido. Billed as one of the world’s best cycling routes, the well-maintained bicycle path winds through six islands, linked by dramatic bridges and ramps.

The route, suitable for a wide range of riders, rewards cyclists of all levels with grandiose ocean views, quaint fishing villages, majestic temples, lush greenery and sparkling beaches.

Speedy riders can cover the 70km route from retro town Onomichi to the shipyard hub of Imabari in a single day, but I take a leisurely pace, crossing six islands in the Seto Inland Sea over two days.

I expect to burn some calories. Instead, I gain a happy belly.

Between jaw-dropping postcard scenes, I feast on fresh, wriggly octopus, slurp on oysters harvested hours ago, dig into a lemon seafood hotpot and make excuses for ice cream pit stops.

I discover tremendous value, such as a 3,850 yen (S$30) lunch in a Michelin-starred restaurant, and hunker down at sleek hotels for $100 a night.

The ride across towering bridges has its inclines, but overall, it is breezy and endorphin-laced – even for someone whose physique has seen better days and whose medical scan a fortnight earlier showed complex meniscus tears in both knees. But here is my confession: I use a battery-assisted bicycle.

This is why this slow journey through the picturesque islands of rural Japan is worth the ride.

Onomichi: A living movie set

Cyclists gear up at Onomichi city, a midpoint between the two international gateways of Fukuoka and Osaka that offer daily direct connections to Singapore, and the starting point of the route. From there, cyclists board a ferry with their bikes for a five-minute ride to the opposite island of Mukaishima, where the cycling begins.

Within minutes, the bustle of the city fades as I round serpentine bends that unfurl seascapes of coves, pine-backed bays and terraced farms.

Set aside at least a night or two in Onomichi before setting off. The city, at a third of Singapore’s land area, is a narrow strip wedged between steep hills and the Seto Inland Sea. Despite a population of only about 150,000, it has long drawn writers, poets and artists. Its dreamy streetscapes are also a sought-after backdrop for films and television programmes.

Up its slopes, ancient temples perched on rocky ledges stand like sentinels over the city, with panoramic views of the sea and surrounding islands. Stone paths link the temples and meander around traditional wooden homes – some transformed into art studios and cosy accommodation – built on steep hills above the town centre.

The hillside community also includes a sizeable feline population. Cat Alley, a tourist favourite, is dotted with decorative pebbles, figurines and the resident cats stretching out in the shade.

In the photogenic town centre, a retro 2km pedestrian street is lined with thrift shops and old-school mom-and-pop stores punctuated by modern pop-art cafes.

The biggest draw, however, are crossings on the railway track that run parallel to the pedestrian strip. Photographers wait for the golden hour for a cinematic capture of the train as it rumbles past, while models pose safely behind a barrier.

Ring-fenced by rich seas and islands offshore, the seafood in Onomichi is astoundingly fresh.

“That is commonly available from a local supermarket,” says chef Yokoyama Daijiro from the Michelin-starred Higashiyama Kappo restaurant, as he politely brushes aside a photo of the cod milt from my $500 kaiseki dinner in Singapore.

He points instead to a handwritten blackboard menu and urges me to try tora fugu shirako, the prized milt of the deadly pufferfish.

I press my tongue gently against the lightly grilled shirako, which has a smoky essence and a rich, custard-like texture. The oceanic mousse is marshmallow-soft, like an indulgent dairy treat without the fishiness.

I understand why this seasonal delicacy – with its peak season in winter just before spawning – is considered the “jewel of the sea”. I quickly pile on a second order, knowing it is a bargain at 4,000 yen. It is easily three times pricier in Tokyo and costs even more in Singapore.

Another winner is the restaurant’s lunch special Kama Meshi, an individual-size pot of fluffy rice with grated turnips and seasonal ingredients. In winter, anago (conger eel) tops the elegant dish, while in spring, it is crowned by top-grade bafun uni (short-spined sea urchin) from Hokkaido. The lunch set starts at 3,850 yen.

A kaiseki dinner course, based on the chef’s seasonal picks, starts at 7,150 yen. And unlike many fine-dining establishments, there is no service charge.

Onomichi also has good-value accommodation, themed around the Shimanami Kaido and its islands.

Within the JR Onomichi Station building, Hotel Beacon, which opened in 2022, is modern and cyclist-friendly, with bicycle wall racks in the rooms. Rates from July to November start at 13,200 yen a night.

Across the road, Hotel Cycle (also known as Onomichi U2) offers stylish, bicycle-themed accommodation in a renovated warehouse that includes a contemporary retail and food hall. Rates for 2026 start at 19,800 yen a night. Check third-party booking platforms such as Trip.com for competitive rates.

Pro-tip: Time your train-spotting photography in Onomichi close to dusk. In winter, with earlier sunsets, catch the 5.15pm train rumbling by from the stone stairway close to Tennei-ji Temple.

Setoda: Historical port town with a zing of lemon

Between Onomichi and Imabari lies Setoda Port, a 40-minute ferry ride from Onomichi. Previously a salt-trading hub, it is now Japan’s lemon capital – there is a citrusy zing in the air.

The terraced hills are blessed with abundant sunshine year round and a temperate climate. Fruit pickers, especially children, will delight at Loro Farm – a 2.7ha plantation with 1,000 trees growing 12 varieties of oranges and lemons. A lemon-picking activity costs 1,500 yen a person.

“We use love, instead of fertilisers and pesticides. No chemicals, no wax, no preservatives,” says owner Hiroma Kaihara, who picks me up from my ryokan in a tuk-tuk.

Along the town’s cobblestoned pedestrian streets, queues form outside Chidori, a 50-year-old lemon speciality restaurant known for its lemon-infused seafood dishes.

Try the 6,000 yen lemon hotpot, a juggernaut of sliced yellow and green lemon spread on a combination of fresh octopus, world-famous Hiroshima oysters and sea bream. Pre-orders are required as only three sets are available a day. Round up lunch with a shot of lemon liqueur for a refreshing buzz.

After the hearty lunch, stroll across the street to the spectacular Kosanji Temple, built by a businessman as a tribute to his mother.

Within its grounds, in a blend of old and new architectural styles with starkly contrasting colours, lies another attraction – the Hill of Hope. This all-white 5,000 sq m garden is sculpted from 3,000 tonnes of expensive Italian Carrara marble. Adult entry fee for both attractions and the Kongo Gallery – which showcases Buddhist art, paintings and handicrafts – costs 1,800 yen.

At the end of the pedestrian street, steps from the ferry station, is the town’s star lodging: the Azumi Setoda, an elegant modern ryokan. It is a classy retreat that blends into its surroundings, reflecting its rich cultural heritage with understated luxury.

Ornate curved tiles top the roofs while delicate latticework frames its perimeter walls. Inside, a network of exposed dark timber beams supports the roof of its voluminous hallway that leads to an atmospheric teahouse, in a garden ringed by tall cedar fences.

Within the 22 rooms, the detailed craftsmanship and clean lines continue, with low-slung furnishings and sliding paper-screen doors. Taking centre stage in every room is a deep cypress-wood bathtub that promises a soothing soak after a day of cycling.

The property, which opened in 2021, was created by hotelier Adrian Zecha, who founded several international hotel companies, including Aman Resorts, along with his long-time collaborator Fumitoshi Hayase, a former representative for Aman Japan.

Together, they are the driving force behind Naru Developments, a hotel development and management company with a boutique portfolio of six projects, including Azumi Setoda in Japan. Look out for deals on its website, with rates for double occupancy, including breakfast, starting at 75,988 yen a night.

Across the street, Yubune bathhouse has citrus-infused baths cocooned within beautifully tiled island-theme artwork. The facilities include a Finnish-style aromatic sauna and cold plunge. Hotel guests enter for free, while day trippers pay 900 yen for adults and 450 yen for children.

Attached to the bathhouse is a small inn with 14 low-key yet functional guest rooms. With rates starting at 20,873 yen a night, this is a great-value pit stop.

Bridges of wonder

Six islands, six spectacular bridges. All masterpieces of engineering, eye-popping and humbling to approach. Towering sky-high, the bridges allow massive ships and tankers to glide under.

Despite the well-fenced, safe pathways, my knuckles go white as I peer down at the swirling sea beneath. Trepidation creeps in and my palms turn sweaty.

And they save the best for last. The final Kurushima-Kaikyo Bridge – a hulking giant that spans 4km (in comparison, Singapore’s Benjamin Sheares Bridge is 1.8km long) and straddles four islands – comprises three successive suspension bridges pulled together by thick cables.

At the top, I pause to savour sweeping views of islands scattered across the wide expanse of sea. In the distance, the shipyards of Imabari mark the end of the journey.

While the Shimanami Kaido is a fleeting two-day journey, it is a snapshot of rural Japanese culture. The slow rhythm soothes and the island communities, though tiny, have an expansive outlook on life that stays with me.

Travel tips

Airlines speak of increasing jet fuel costs. But when competition is stiff and filling up capacity is the primary objective, airfares remain fairly stable.

On third-party platform Trip.com, round-trip airfare for the seven-hour flight between Singapore and Osaka’s Kansai Airport in early September costs $327 on budget carrier Peach Aviation and $795 on Singapore Airlines (SIA). These fares are fairly similar to 2025’s, before the oil shock triggered by the ongoing Middle East war.

From Kansai Airport, it costs about 11,000 yen (one way) and takes between 2½ and three hours by train to get to Onomichi Station. For a better deal, get the JR Kansai-Hiroshima Area Pass. It costs 17,000 yen for five consecutive days and offers unlimited train rides – allowing you to plan sightseeing along the way.

Another gateway is Kyushu’s Fukuoka Airport, around two hours from Onomichi by train. The flight time is shorter at six hours, but fares are higher – costing more than $1,000 for a round trip – as only full-service carriers such as SIA service this route.

The Shimanami Kaido route is supported by guest houses, cafes, toilets, coin lockers, luggage-forwarding services and bicycle-return stations.

Those with limited time or energy can shorten the ride by hopping onto a local bus or ferry back to Onomichi, which offers the best connectivity to major cities and gateway airports such as Kansai and Fukuoka.

Standard bikes cost 3,000 yen a day, while battery-assisted ones cost 4,000 yen, with options for child seats. Tandem bikes are available, but these face limited accessibility for certain sections of the route.

There are numerous bike rental companies in Onomichi, as well as along the route, but stick to the government-related shops, which offer more return stations. Booking in advance is essential. Go to visitshimanami.com/bike-rental

Take along a cap to wear under the helmet that comes with the bike rental – it will come in handy rain or shine.

Start riding early, preferably before 9.30am each day, and time your trip to return the bike before the kiosks close for the day, which is between 5 and 8pm, depending on the station.

The best time to go is between March and May, when temperatures range from 12 to 23 deg C and spotting cherry blossoms is a bonus. Catch autumn foliage from September to November, when temperatures range between 18 and 23 deg C.

Avoid the rainy season from early June to mid-July, which is marked by frequent showers and heavy rain, as well as December to February, which can be windy and chilly.