Dive into Labuan Bajo’s underwater paradise

LABUAN BAJO, Indonesia – The emerald islands, blush-pink beaches and komodo dragons may be what first draw people to the rising star of

Indonesia’s “New Balis”

, an initiative by the Indonesian government to diversify tourism destinations. They include Lake Toba in Sumatra and Borobudur in Java, home to the ancient temple of the same name.

But it is what lies beneath Labuan Bajo’s turquoise waves that keeps me coming back for more – an underwater paradise of vibrant coral reefs teeming with diverse marine life that is a scuba diver’s dream.

It has comparable diving to regional hot spot Raja Ampat, and is easier to reach. Renowned for hosting over 75 per cent of known coral species, Labuan Bajo also has one of the world’s richest fish fauna, with at least 1,320 species.

The name Labuan Bajo means “Harbour of the Bajo people”, named for the indigenous sea nomads of this region who were accomplished sailors and fishermen. Today, it is the gateway to Komodo National Park, a Unesco World Heritage site.

Embracing change

I first visited Labuan Bajo in 2016, then a quiet seaside village where all amenities could be found along the main street that hugs the coastline.

As I exit the airport almost a decade later in June, it is apparent how much the town has changed. Partially completed buildings clutter up a much busier main street and building cranes dot the once-empty green slopes of surrounding hills, all in anticipation of more visitors to come.

Labuan Bajo used to be accessible only by domestic connections, mostly via hubs like Jakarta and Bali, but Komodo Airport converted into an international airport in 2024.

I take a three-hour direct flight from Singapore to Labuan Bajo via former low-cost carrier Jetstar Asia, which ceased operations in July. Scoot plans to take over this route, with flights set to launch between October and March if approved.

According to Indonesia’s Central Bureau of Statistics of West Manggarai Regency, the number of hotels in Labuan Bajo has more than doubled, from 50 in 2015 to 114 properties in 2024.

International hotel groups are also entering the market. Ta’aktana resort and spa (

str.sg/kHX9

), where I stay, was the first of these to open in Labuan Bajo in June 2024. Part of the Luxury Collection under Marriott Bonvoy, the resort is a five-minute drive from the airport, perched along the hilly coastline and offering a range of suites and villas with its own pier and stretch of private beach. Rooms start at 5,966,000 rupiah (S$470) a night.

Crowne Plaza Labuan Bajo is set to open in July 2026, while Dusit Collection will open a luxury resort in 2028.

Underwater paradise

Avid divers will want to spend at least a week in Labuan Bajo to explore its myriad dive sites thoroughly. You can also consider taking a liveaboard cruise to access more remote sites.

While most of Labuan Bajo’s dive centres that arrange daily excursions can be found along Jalan Soekarno Hatta, the main street of its town centre, Ta’aktana has its own dive centre, Ta’a Dive Resort (

str.sg/bh9Q

), which offers bespoke dive excursions to resort guests.

A typical day of land-based scuba diving involves three dives around Komodo National Park, but Ms Foo Jia Hui, dive instructor at Ta’a Dive Resort, says its private charter allows guests to customise their itinerary. For instance, they can weave in visits to nearby attractions like the scenic Padar Island and see Komodo dragons at Loh Liang, a section of the park, between dives.

My companion and I kick off our day of diving by hopping onto a speedboat, zipping past the picturesque but slower phinisi – traditional wooden boats of the Bugis and Makassar seafarers, some of which are now repurposed for tourism.

Our first stop is Siaba Kecil island. Its sloping coral reef is a popular drift diving site, with underwater currents strong enough for divers to “drift” along without needing to kick their fins.

The colourful coral wall teems with fish like a real-life screensaver. In the shallows near the end of the dive, we explore a field of red anemones and spot several turtles close to the neighbouring Siaba Besar island, a favourite snorkelling spot.

Another popular spot among divers and snorkellers is Mawan, a cleaning station frequented by manta rays where smaller fish eat parasites and dead skin off their bodies, like a car wash.

In some areas of the dive site, coral lies in shards on the seabed, remnants of the once-prevalent dynamite fishing, where explosives are used to stun or kill fish so they can be easily collected.

In 2004, the practice was banned to protect the national park’s ecosystem. Local fishermen are allowed to fish with traditional spears and nets. While the ban of destructive fishing practices has allowed some coral reefs in Komodo National Park to recover, policing this can be hard, especially in more remote areas.

Unfortunately, no manta rays come to call when we dive at Mawan, though we spot a few hungry turtles feasting on coral algae and even a shy shark.

Our last dive for the day is at Batu Bolong, a world-renowned dive site marked by a rock with a hole through its middle. An unassuming perch for seabirds, this island stretches deep below the surface, an elongated column of rock covered in pristine coral.

The currents here are strong and not for beginner divers. They carry plankton that attract all manner of fish – from clouds of tiny rainbow-hued fish weaving amid sea sponges to circling blacktip reef sharks to napoleon wrasse as big as my torso. It is like plunging into an aquarium and is a must-see for advanced divers.

Surface interval

There are concerns whether the increasing popularity of Komodo National Park will result in

overtourism in Labuan Bajo

, and locals have opposed plans to build a luxury resort on Padar Island.

It is heartening, at least, to witness efforts to curb environmental damage and pollution by hotels and tour operators.

Education of locals and guests is still key, says Ta’aktana’s marine specialist, Mr Mochammad Agastha. Cleaning up rubbish along the shoreline was one of the first tasks he had to tackle before he could start building a coral garden around the pier of the resort.

Bits of coral were attached to thin ropes laid on the seabed like a laundry line, and cleaned by staff regularly to ensure healthy growth. Once mature, these corals will be shifted to clusters around the house reef, attracting a variety of fish life in shallow waters open to guests who want a quick snorkel within resort grounds.

Such efforts are part of a local movement to strike a thoughtful balance between progress and preservation in Labuan Bajo. As the destination evolves, with luxury resorts and new infrastructure rising along its once-sleepy coastline and more travellers discovering its wonders, I can only hope this underwater paradise remains timeless.

Travel tips

You can book a Grab or Gojek motorcycle taxi in Labuan Bajo’s downtown area from 10,000 rupiah, but anything farther afield requires a taxi or private car charter. You can also rent a motorcycle or car to venture out of town.

Most dive centres in Labuan Bajo have their main offices along the main street of Jalan Soekarno Hatta. Established operators include Blue Marlin Dive (

bluemarlindive.com/komodo

), Scuba Junkie Komodo (

scubajunkiekomodo.com

) and Dragon Dive Komodo (

dragondivekomodo.com

). A day trip with three dives starts at 2,600,000 rupiah.

Dive sites around Labuan Bajo can be categorised into three areas.

Central: Most dives take place around the islands in the heart of Komodo National Park, with dive sites typically less than an hour from Labuan Bajo’s harbour by boat, and can be visited year round.

North: North Komodo includes a cluster of dive spots in the Flores Sea north of Komodo Island. The currents here tend to be quite strong, and the area is more suited for advanced divers. The best time to dive here is March to October, when conditions are calmer and the visibility is better.

South: South Komodo sites in the Sumba Sea around Rinca Island are farther from the mainland – around 60 to 90 minutes by boat – and better explored on a liveaboard over a few days. Water temperatures here can drop to 22 deg C. Dive here from October to February, when the weather is calmer.