Watches and Wonders 2025: Patek Philippe’s Calatrava, IWC’s black ceramic Ingenieur and other stunners

GENEVA – On April 7, 2025, Watches and Wonders wrapped up its most successful edition yet, reaffirming its position as the world’s premier watchmaking event.

Figures from the organisers show that the week-long showcase attracted more than 55,000 visitors, marking a 12 per cent increase from the previous year. Among the attendees were 6,000 retail professionals (up 5 per cent), 1,600 journalists (up 7 per cent) and 23,000 members of the public – a notable 21 per cent rise from 2024.

This impressive growth highlights the event’s growing global appeal and its significance within the international watchmaking community.

Celebrity appearances added an extra sparkle. Stars who attended the event included British actress Simone Ashley from the Netflix period drama Bridgerton (2020 to present), Swiss tennis great Roger Federer and Taiwanese pop star Jay Chou.

The main draw, however, were the watches – from reimagined classics to cutting-edge creations showcasing ground-breaking technology and complications. Last week, The Straits Times featured 12 of the fair’s standout pieces. Here are eight more.

IWC Black Ceramic Ingenieur Automatic 42

Originally designed by the late watchmaker Gerald Genta in 1976, the Ingenieur came back reimagined in 2023. And for Watches and Wonders 2025, IWC unveiled the Ingenieur Automatic 42, a new iteration dressed entirely in black zirconium oxide ceramic.

Larger than the 40mm steel and titanium versions, this 42mm powerhouse boasts a three-part ceramic case construction comprising a case ring, bezel and caseback. A titanium ring inside the case secures the screws and movement while contributing to its robust 100m water resistance. Diamond-tipped tools are used to achieve the brushed and polished finishes on the ceramic components.

The signature grid dial, meanwhile, is recreated in black with alternating textures, complemented by black hands and indices treated with Super-LumiNova for nighttime legibility. Powered by the in-house Calibre 82110, the watch features IWC’s Pellaton winding system, beats at 4Hz and offers a solid 60-hour power reserve.

Price: $27,700

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Grande Complication

Roger Dubuis celebrates its 30th anniversary with this timepiece, limited to eight pieces. It is powered by the new RD118 calibre, an in-house movement boasting three revered complications: a perpetual calendar, a minute repeater and a flying tourbillon.

The perpetual calendar, a favourite of founder Roger Dubuis, is presented on a striking bi-retrograde display with skeletonised hands and semi-instantaneous jumps. It requires no manual adjustment until 2100.

The minute repeater has a tritone chime, known historically as the “devil’s chord”, activated via an “all or nothing” pusher. Last but not least, the flying tourbillon at six o’clock showcases the watchmaker’s signature lightweight titanium construction and intricate design.

Encased in 45mm pink gold with a sapphire crystal caseback and paired with a brown calfskin strap, the watch comes with the coveted Poincon de Geneve certification.

Price: Upon request

Panerai Luminor Marina Collection

Panerai’s new Luminor Marina series retains its military-inspired functionality but introduces cutting-edge features. The revamped models are 12 per cent thinner, measuring 44mm by 13.7mm, and are water-resistant up to 50 bar (or 500m).

Key updates include the debut of Super-LumiNova X2 for enhanced low-light readability and a new P.980 calibre movement with a three-day power reserve, stop-seconds function and improved precision.

The new line-up comprises three steel and one titanium models. The stainless steel models feature Panerai’s new AISI 316LVM – 1.4441 alloy, which is vacuum arc remelted for superior purity and corrosion resistance, and weighs 15 per cent less than before. They come with blue, black or white sunburst dials on straps, or a blue-dial version on a steel bracelet.

The Luminor Marina Titanio PAM03325 has a lightweight Grade 5 titanium case paired with an olive-green sun-brushed dial and matching straps, a nod to Panerai’s military roots.

Price: $12,400 to $13,800

Ulysse Nardin Diver (Air)

Ulysse Nardin’s addition to its Diver collection is the Diver (Air), the world’s lightest mechanical dive watch. It weighs just 52g with its elastic strap, or 46g without.

The 44mm case is crafted from 90 per cent recycled titanium and Nylo-Foil, a composite of recycled fishing nets and upcycled carbon fibre. Even the bezel insert is made from carbon fibre salvaged from International Monohull Open Class Association racing yachts. Despite its featherweight construction, the watch maintains a robust 200m water resistance.

The real star, however, is the new UN-374 movement, a skeletonised evolution of Ulysse Nardin’s previous calibres. By removing the top movement plate and hollowing out titanium bridges and the mainspring barrel, the movement weighs an astonishing 7g. Yet, it remains structurally sound, capable of withstanding shocks up to 5kg.

The innovative flying mainspring barrel and silicon escapement further enhance performance, delivering an impressive 90-hour power reserve.

Price: $55,600

Zenith G.F.J.

Zenith is marking its 160th anniversary with the G.F.J., named after the brand’s founder Georges Favre-Jacot. This special timepiece – limited to 160 pieces – revives the legendary calibre 135-O, celebrated for its record-breaking precision in observatory chronometer competitions during the 1950s and 1960s.

The calibre won an unparalleled 235 chronometry prizes, including five consecutive first-place finishes at the Neuchatel Observatory.

To reengineer it for modern times, Zenith has retained the movement’s original dimensions and architecture, but incorporated advanced materials and technical innovations, including a 72-hour power reserve, optimised gear train and COSC-certified precision of +/-2 seconds a day.

Housed in a sleek 39mm platinum case with vintage-inspired details, the G.F.J. features a mesmerising blue dial with a lapis lazuli centre evoking a starry sky. Meticulously finished components and elegant touches like faceted white gold markers and mother-of-pearl accents elevate its design.

Price: $73,600

Van Cleef & Arpels Poetic Complications

Van Cleef & Arpels, well known for blending romance with horological artistry, scooped the Ladies Watch Prize at the prestigious Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve in 2010 for its Le Pont des Amoureux watch.

A visual delight, it portrays two lovers meeting gracefully on a bridge in Paris. Using an intricate double retrograde movement to mark the hours and minutes, the couple inch gently towards each other, finally sharing a tender kiss at noon and once again at midnight. Then, as softly as they meet, the figures retreat to start their journey anew.

Van Cleef & Arpels has now expanded its Pont des Amoureux (Bridge Of Lovers) collection with four enchanting models: Matinee, Aube, Soiree and Claire de Lune. Each 38mm watch – encased in white or rose gold and adorned with diamonds – boasts superb craftsmanship, featuring grisaille enamel to evoke Paris’ luminous charm from dawn to dusk. Meanwhile, another new watch with a new movement - the Bal des Amoreux - swops the iconic bridge of the Pont des Amoureux for a Parisian guinguette – a lively al fresco cafe where couples dine, drink and dance.

Price: Upon request

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon

To mark its 270th anniversary, Vacheron Constantin has launched the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar, Ref 6300.

The watch – limited to 127 pieces – has a 42mm platinum case that is just 11.1mm thick and is powered by the in-house calibre 2162 QP/270, an evolution of the 2018 Traditionnelle self-winding tourbillon calibre.

Measuring 32.79mm by 6.55mm, the movement features a peripheral rotor for automatic winding and boasts an impressive 72-hour power reserve. The sapphire caseback offers a fascinating look at the special “cote unique” finish on the bridges and a discreet engraving celebrating the brand’s milestone.

The silvery-white dial is adorned with a hand-guilloche motif inspired by the watchmaker’s signature Maltese cross. Subdials display the day, date and month in blue, alongside a leap year indicator. Below them lies the stunning tourbillon with its Maltese cross-shaped carriage and a single blued screw that tracks running seconds.

Price: Upon request

Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P

This is my favourite watch at 2025’s fair. A real class act and the latest addition to Patek Philippe’s iconic Calatrava Ref 96 collection, the 6196P retains the timeless elegance of its predecessors, featuring a 38mm platinum case (1mm larger than before) and a slim 9.33mm profile.

While the watch is slightly thicker, its design remains true to Calatrava’s DNA, with elongated lugs, a flat coin-edge bezel and polished surfaces.

The sapphire caseback showcases the impressive calibre 30-255 PS – a modern hand-wound engine with twin barrels offering a 65-hour power reserve and stop-seconds functionality.

The watch’s most distinctive feature is the stunning dial – a salmon-toned rose-gilt opaline finish paired with anthracite white gold markers and dauphine hands. It is fitted with a brown alligator strap with a platinum tang buckle.

Price: $68,300

The article has been updated to add that Van Cleef & Arpels’ Bal des Amoreux is a new watch with a new movement.