Non-binary and neurodivergent models redefine what is beautiful

SINGAPORE – A tall, gangly boy with a face that could pass for a member of South Korean boy band BTS entered the convention hall, looking visibly flustered. In front of him, a panel of judges, including former beauty queens Priscilla Tang, 42, and Jean Ho, 57, scrutinised his every move.

“Are you very nervous?” asked one of them gently.

“Yes,” answered student and aspiring model Jonas Teo.

“Take a deep breath,” she advised.

The 19-year-old was one of the 150 participants auditioning to be Singapore’s “next top model” in mid-September. But this was no ordinary modelling competition.

Organised by social enterprise Singapore Fashion Runway at Marina One, Singapore’s Next Top Inclusive Model Hunt 2022 was open to all, such as Mr Teo, who was diagnosed with high-functioning autism in 2005 when he was two.

As the world emerges from the pandemic, in-person fashion shows and events have returned at full throttle. However, in a departure from their usual line-up, fashion brands are increasingly venturing beyond the token plus-sized female model and banking on a diverse cast of faces.

From lingerie label Victoria’s Secret’s first model with Down syndrome, Sofia Jirau, to Italian luxury brand Prada’s unprecedented use of transgender and non-binary models at the recent Milan Fashion Week, 2022’s models are gloriously different.

Mr Daniel Boey, creative director and founder of FashionConnects 2022, a two-week event in November which celebrated sustainable and inclusive Asian fashion, says inclusivity is now a crucial part of the modelling industry. Thanks to social media, the pushback against unrealistic beauty standards has grown more pronounced over the years.

The 57-year-old adds: “In today’s politically correct world, people are less tolerant of myopic views and egocentric opinions.”

In Singapore, an increasing number of home-grown businesses, such as local athleisure label Finix Wear as well as lingerie brands Our Bralette Club and Perk By Kate, are also using inclusive models in their campaigns.

“Representation is very important because it validates our humanity and existence in the world. When we are able to see ourselves in others, such as a celebrity or a model in a fashion campaign, we are then able to relate and build more meaningful connections,” says Mr Leonard Cheong, the 38-year-old founder of Finix Wear, who has been using transgender, gender-fluid, LGBTQ and plus-sized models to market his clothes since the brand started in 2020.

Mr Boey believes the inclusive trend was accelerated by the pandemic.

“Magazines used to favour Pan-Asian faces over Asian ones. This was quickly followed by a preference for Brazilian, Russian and Caucasian faces. But we have Covid-19 to thank for the quick and sudden resurgence in the booking of local faces. When foreign models could not fly in because of travel restrictions, clients were suddenly forced to look inwards for talent. Some agencies are starting to open their doors to more inclusive casting as well,” says Mr Boey.

He adds that modelling agencies such as Now Model Management, Ave Management and Misc. Management are now thriving because they had the foresight to nurture local models when there was no demand.

His own inaugural FashionConnects closing show Catwalk With A Conscience featured 56 models of different sizes and colours.

But perhaps one of the first few individuals who recognised fashion’s untapped potential is Ms Eileen Yap, founder of social enterprise Singapore Fashion Runway. The 47-year-old has been organising Singapore’s Next Top Inclusive Model Hunt since 2018, as part of Fashion For A Social Cause, a home-grown movement which threads neurodiverse youth, their caregivers and families together.

She says: “In the first year, 500 people signed up. We were overwhelmed by the response, and it was such an emotional day for us, seeing families with and without disabilities come down to audition and support our cause. There is no judgment, bias or embarrassment. Everyone came together for a common vision. Everyone’s beauty is recognised on a common platform.”

The modelling competition recently crowned its newest winner, Teo Yong Le, a bespectacled 19-year-old student with moderate autism.

As the champion, he will be groomed not just for future modelling stints, but also in areas including the creative and performing arts, as well as entrepreneurship in a year-long sponsored programme for youth with special needs.

Previous participants of the programme include Timothy Lee, who played the first lead character with Down syndrome in Mediacorp drama Kin, and Natasha Steinbock, who was booked by home-grown batikwear brand, Utopia Apparels.

However, not everyone takes Ms Yap’s initiative seriously.

“I remember starting in 2015 in SG50, and it was daunting for some to experience community-led fashion shows like us. People imagine fashion shows to be with tall, perfect-sized models. Some say we look like a ‘rojak’ fashion show, and do not understand what we were trying to do. But we chose to be diversified and make a stand that beauty comes in all shapes, sizes and abilities,” she adds.

Mr Boey also admits the demand for “unconventional” models in Singapore is still much lower compared with that overseas, as many brands remain conservative.

He says: “I think we are a society of followers. There are very, very few people who try to push the boundaries and innovate. So if Victoria’s Secret or Fenty uses a darker-skinned model, they’ll use a darker-skinned model as well. A lot of fashion brands tend to err on the side of caution.”

Changes are afoot however, as Singapore’s fashion industry continues to evolve.