More than a watch: How the Rolex GMT-Master became a global icon

SINGAPORE – If you have ever wondered why the Rolex GMT-Master has come to embody adventure, elegance and style, head to the Paragon atrium for a special exhibition by the Swiss watchmaker and watch retailer Cortina. 

Open to the public, the showcase – titled Time Zone to Time Zone and running till Nov 2 – traces the evolution of the iconic dual-time watch that rose alongside the golden age of commercial aviation as the trusted companion of pilots, explorers and globe-trotters alike.

Its story began in the jet age of the 1950s, when air travel was shrinking the world. Born from a collaboration between Rolex and Pan American World Airways, the GMT-Master was conceived to help pilots navigate across continents and time zones.

But what began as a cockpit instrument has become one of the most recognisable symbols of precision and wanderlust on the planet.

The debut of the GMT-Master (Reference 6542) in 1955 was revolutionary. The watch featured a fourth hand that completed one rotation every 24 hours, paired with a two-tone bezel that distinguished day from night. The colours – blue and red – earned it the enduring nickname Pepsi.

For the first time, wearers could read two time zones at a glance, a breakthrough for pilots charting transatlantic routes.

Originally fitted with a fragile Bakelite bezel that glowed with radium numerals, the Ref. 6542 quickly gave way to sturdier aluminium versions after safety concerns arose. Ironically, that early vulnerability has made surviving Bakelite examples among the most coveted in the vintage market today.

The watch’s next major evolution came with the Ref. 1675, produced from 1959 through 1980. This model introduced crown guards, a slightly larger case and the aesthetic that would define the modern GMT silhouette.

As international travel became a symbol of success, the watch left the cockpit and entered boardrooms, movie sets and even outer space.

In 1982, Rolex introduced the GMT-Master II and, with it, a leap in functionality. The new Caliber 3085 movement allowed wearers to independently adjust the local hour hand, letting travellers easily set local time without stopping the watch or disturbing the 24-hour hand.

The Fat Lady, as this thicker model was nicknamed, effectively allowed the reading of three time zones, a dream for globe-trotters and pilots alike.

Over the years, Rolex continued to refine the GMT-Master’s technical prowess and visual language. The 2000s brought the introduction of scratch-resistant Cerachrom bezels, which could now display dual colours through a complex patented process.

The Batman (black and blue) became a modern favourite in 2013, followed by the triumphant return of the steel Pepsi bezel in 2018, this time paired with the elegant Jubilee bracelet. Incidentally, the GMT-Master II is the only Rolex Professional model available with this supple and elegant bracelet.

In 2025, the watchmaker once again pushed the limits of materials and design with the debut of its first ceramic dial on the GMT-Master II, a striking white-gold model crowned with a vivid green bezel. The collection also introduced tiger iron dials for the Everose and yellow-gold editions, adding a new layer of artistry to the icon of travel.

The rise of the GMT-Master as a cultural icon owes much to the silver screen and beyond.

One of its earliest star turns came in the 1964 James Bond classic Goldfinger, in which actress Honor Blackman donned the original Ref. 6542 as Pussy Galore, forever linking the watch with aviation glamour and espionage chic.

Decades later, actor Clint Eastwood made the brown-and-gold Root Beer variant his signature accessory, wearing it both on- and off-screen in action films such as Firefox (1982) and In The Line Of Fire (1993).

The GMT-Master even found fame among the stars, quite literally. It was a favourite of National Aeronautics and Space Administration’s astronauts during the moon missions, and in 2024, the Rolex GMT-Master worn by Apollo 14 astronaut Ed Mitchell fetched US$2.2 million (S$2.8 million) at auction.

Visitors can now step into this 70-year-old legacy at Paragon’s atrium, where a giant model of the GMT-Master II, 14 artfully curated panels and a short film trace the watch’s journey from its 1955 debut to the present day.

To make the most of your visit, register for a guided tour at

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