Decoding the hidden meanings in the Emerald Hill kebayas

SINGAPORE – Costume design plays a key role in period productions, and local series Emerald Hill – The Little Nyonya Story ticks all the boxes with its specially designed kebayas, which add to the Peranakan flavour of the 30-episode drama.

Each kebaya, an open-fronted upper garment made from different fabrics, was tailored and embroidered by Mr Raymond Wong, a 20-year veteran in kebaya-making.

Working with Ms Tee Yu Yan, the senior image stylist on Emerald Hill who provided a detailed brief – including the synopsis, character descriptions and colour palette for each cast member – Mr Wong crafted more than 40 kebayas for the female cast.

The series is a slice-of-life drama revolving around the Zhangs, a wealthy Chinese Peranakan family in 1950s to 1970s Singapore. Boasting a stellar cast that includes Zoe Tay, Jesseca Liu, Tasha Low, Chantalle Ng, Ferlyn Wong, Romeo Tan, Zhang Zetong, Tyler Ten and Jeanette Aw, Emerald Hill is airing on Channel 8 and streaming on Netflix and mewatch.

Each kebaya’s intricate embroidery is unique to the character wearing it and tells her story. Here are some of the statement pieces.

Yamamoto Yueniang (Jeanette Aw)

The titular protagonist in the drama The Little Nyonya (2008 to 2009) returns in this spin-off. Though her screen time is short, her presence is significant, and so are the kebayas she wears.

The wardrobe brief for Yueniang was to show off her wealth and status as a pineapple plantation owner. Mr Wong chose the quiet luxury route and embellished a simple white top with pineapples and ancient Chinese coins.

He says: “Using white and not the traditional bright colours reflects Yueniang’s humble origins and down-to-earth personality.”

He also added embroidery of a little girl following behind her ma jie (domestic helper), who is carrying a pineapple in a basket. The inspiration, says Mr Wong, was from the script, where Yueniang recalled visiting the Zhangs with her ma jie.

This kebaya set is part of four sarong kebayas on display in the Performing Identity showcase at the Peranakan Museum’s Fashion gallery, a section dedicated to the role of costume in Peranakan theatre and television.

Zhang Anna (Chantalle Ng)

Anna’s colour palette leans towards pink and lilac, to make her appear demure and cute. But Anna is nowhere as angelic as she looks.

Instead of floral and bird patterns, Mr Wong decided to use the rabbit, which has different connotations in Eastern and Western literature.

In the Chinese zodiac, the rabbit symbolises mercy, elegance, beauty and peace, which is how Anna portrays herself outwardly. In the Western context, the rabbit is viewed as arrogant and proud, like in The Tortoise And The Hare from Aesop’s Fables. Thus, Mr Wong designed a pink kebaya for Anna that is adorned with images of rabbits and tortoises.

The second kebaya features embroidery of a rabbit jumping into a hole, which Mr Wong says is a depiction of the idiom “going down the rabbit hole”, taken from English author Lewis Carroll’s Alice In Wonderland.

“It’s a metaphor for Anna’s deceptive nature, how she is so absorbed in being the villain that she loses track of everything,” he adds.

The “rabbit hole” kebaya has been donated to the Peranakan Museum.

Zhang Xinniang (Tasha Low)

As Xinniang is a picture of positivity and optimism, her colour palette consists of bright yellows and blues. Although Low had about 10 kebayas made for her, two designs stand out.

The first is a yellow kebaya with blue stripes decorated with daisies, which symbolise innocence, happiness and loyalty – key traits of Xinniang. The kebaya is paired with a bright blue batik sarong. This costume is on display at the Peranakan Museum.

Another statement kebaya features magnolias embroidered on white Swiss voile speckled with yellow woven dots.

“The flower, which symbolises beauty, purity and nobility, is called yu lan in Chinese, which is found in the Chinese phrase that means the student surpasses the master,” Mr Wong says, explaining it represents Xinniang’s admiration for Yueniang.

Zhou Hongyu (Ferlyn Wong)

While Hongyu – an infamous prostitute who is later revealed to be a pivotal member of the Zhang clan – wears the cheongsam or Western dresses in most of the show, her kebaya is no less meaningful.

Her mint-green kebaya depicts swallows and pear blossoms, both symbols of mourning, says Mr Wong.

He adds: “There is a deeper meaning to why I used these motifs, but I can’t reveal any more, lest I spoil the plot.”

This sarong kebaya has found a home at the Peranakan Museum.

Kang Sili (Dawn Yeoh)

Anna’s mother Sili is one of the smartest and fiercest members of the Zhang clan, and she does not shy away from being sexy.

Most of her kebayas are black and red, symbolising her Westernised background and rebellious personality, says Mr Wong.

His favourite kebaya in the Emerald Hill collection is the black-and-red checkered garment made using a see-through jacquard fabric and emblazoned with only one colour – fiery red.

“Take a closer look and you will see the flowers are made up of chilli padi, symbolising her spitfire character,” says Mr Wong.

Zhang Yinniang (Sheila Sim)

The youngest of the Zhang children, Yinniang is an independent, modern woman trapped in a traditional household.

As she rarely wears the kebaya, the only piece she owns has to be loud and one that commands attention. Mr Wong envisioned a bright blue kebaya where the key design elements are tennis rackets and balls, as Yinniang loves the sport.

“Delicate floral patterns will not suit Yinniang’s bold character,” he says.