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Would you pay $300 for ‘hawker food’?: How fine dining has come to embrace Singaporean cuisine
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Labyrinth chef-owner Han Liguang's new menu foregrounds forgotten heritage dishes.
ST PHOTO: KEVIN LIM
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SINGAPORE – Dinner at Labyrinth starts, as it might on any casual night out, with a bowl of bak kut teh broth.
What follows is a highlight reel of the island’s hawker delights: oyster bao, satay, char kway teow and chicken rice, just to name a few. At some point, a small round “hawker tabletop” in that unmistakable shade of lemon yellow is trotted out, complete with a tray return sticker and a tissue packet to “chope” your spot.
