Indian haute couture presence ‘overdue’, says designer Manish Malhotra at Paris Fashion Week
Sign up now: Get ST's newsletters delivered to your inbox
- Manish Malhotra became the fourth Indian designer to join Paris Haute Couture Week, highlighting India's rich cultural heritage in textiles and embroidery.
- His debut show "Maa" was a personal tribute to his late mother, featuring dramatic designs symbolising their bond.
- Malhotra aims to expand internationally, considering new ateliers and stores in Paris and New York after 35 years in fashion.
AI generated
PARIS – Indian designers are a growing presence at Paris Haute Couture Week – “overdue” representation for a country that has long played a role behind the scenes, said the latest newcomer, Manish Malhotra.
The 59-year-old became the fourth Indian designer after Rahul Mishra, Gaurav Gupta and Vaishali S to join the official Paris calendar this week, considered the most elite stage in the global fashion industry.
The best-known European houses from Chanel to Christian Dior have long relied on Indian embroiderers and textile-makers for their spectacular one-of-a-kind creations.
But Indian designers are now harnessing home-grown artisans to challenge Parisian tastemakers in a business that traditionally served royalty but now caters to celebrities and other global VIPs.
“I think it was long overdue,” Malhotra said a day after presenting an intensely personal collection of highly structured dresses in Paris – all a tribute to his recently deceased mother.
“India is so culturally rich in terms of texture and textile, architecture, jewels (and) embroidery. It has such a heritage of kings and queens,” he added.
“You know, I think it was high time.”
Malhotra presented an intensely personal collection of highly structured dresses.
PHOTO: AFP
France’s Haute Couture and Fashion Federation has been actively diversifying the labels present in Paris, inviting designers from outside Europe and the West.
Malhotra admitted to feeling nervous before his first show on July 8, which was titled Maa and reflected his deep bond with his mother, who died just three months ago.
“There’s nothing bigger than Paris Haute Couture. This is the ultimate platform,” he said.
While preparing, “I kept coming back to my mother’s story, and at one point, I said, ‘you know what, Paris doesn’t know me, and if they are going to know me, they have to know what I’m feeling right now’,” he explained.
“And honestly, I’m still very affected by losing her.”
The best-known European houses have long relied on Indian embroiderers and textile-makers for their spectacular one-of-a-kind creations.
PHOTO: AFP
The opening outfit was a dramatic full-length coat featuring sculptures of a boy and his mother at different life stages, while another dress featured elaborate cut-outs of a mother and a boy on the front who embraced as the model moved.
Born into a middle-class family in Mumbai, Malhotra started out making costumes for Bollywood before moving into couture and bridal wear.
His decision to show in Paris underlines his growing international ambitions, having launched separate jewellery and beauty lines, as well as his first overseas boutique in Dubai in 2023.
He also became a viral sensation after the 2026 Met Gala, arriving in a jacket and cape featuring sculptural and embroidered tributes to Mumbai.
Malhotra at the Met Gala in New York City, US, on May 4.
PHOTO: REUTERS
He has also dressed international superstars from Barbadian singer Rihanna to American actress-singer Jennifer Lopez.
“After 35 years of working, what’s the next challenge for me?” he said. “Maybe an atelier in Paris, maybe a store in New York?” AFP
