How far are South Koreans willing to go for the perfect ‘aegyosal’?

SEOUL - In South Korea’s ever-evolving beauty landscape, few features have proven as enduring or as obsessively refined as aegyosal, the subtle puff of fat just below the lower lash line.

The naturally occurring feature, associated with youth and expression, has transformed into a carefully constructed aesthetic shaped over decades by surgery, injectables, makeup and, in the latest trend, semipermanent tattooing.

Aegyosal tattoos are gaining traction among young people, who are turning to the low-cost, easily accessible procedure to make their eyes appear larger without the need for daily makeup or invasive surgery.

The term aegyosal loosely translates to “cute fat,” and its appeal lies in illusion.

Aegyosal is not the same as under-eye bags caused by fatigue or aging. Rather, it is the slight volume that appears below the lower lid when smiling, creating a crescent-shaped fullness that makes the eyes look brighter, larger and more expressive. In a society where youthful softness is highly prized, this small feature carries outsized influence.

“Aegyosal makes the eyes appear larger because people perceive not just the eye itself, but the surrounding area as part of its size,” said plastic surgeon Kim Shin-young.

“When combined with double eyelids, it enhances clarity and definition. It also adds volume beneath the eyes, giving the face more dimension,” the surgeon said.

The fixation is also tied to expression. Unlike more static cosmetic features, aegyosal moves with the face. “It becomes more prominent as the orbicularis oculi muscle (the muscle surrounding the eye) contracts,” the doctor explained. “This makes facial expressions look more natural and lively.”

There is also a strong association with youth. Because aegyosal tends to diminish with age, its presence can subtly signal a younger appearance. This effect is often described in South Korea as “dongan,” or “baby face.”

This desire has driven a steady evolution in techniques. In the early 2000s, surgical fat repositioning procedures were common, redistributing under-eye fat to create permanent volume. These invasive methods gradually gave way to filler, which offered a quicker, less risky alternative.

At the same time, makeup artists, especially in the K-pop industry, developed increasingly sophisticated techniques, using contouring and shimmer to simulate the effect.

Now, the trend has taken another step: semipermanent aegyosal tattoos.

“You may have heard of semi-permanent eyeliner or lip tinting,” said a beauty practitioner working in Jamsil. “Aegyosal tattooing works on a similar principle, but focuses on creating both shadow and highlight under the eyes,” the practitioner said.

The procedure begins with a detailed sketch. Practitioners map out the ideal shape based on the client’s eye structure and facial balance. A base layer is then applied to create subtle shading, mimicking the natural shadow beneath the puff. In some cases, a bright pigment, often peach, pink or beige, is tattooed onto the most prominent area to simulate reflected light.

The process typically takes about 10 minutes. After two to four weeks, clients return for a retouch session, where additional pigment and shading are layered in to refine symmetry and depth. The result is a softly contoured under-eye area that appears enhanced even without makeup.

The appeal lies in its subtlety.

“It’s a change that doesn’t look obvious,” said Kim Min-jeong, who underwent the procedure. “It’s like getting the effect of cosmetic surgery without actually having surgery.”

The cost varies by clinic, but generally falls between 100,000 won and 200,000 won (S$85 to S$171), including the retouch session. The results are not permanent; they typically last between six months and a year, gradually fading over time.

Still, the trend has sparked mixed reactions online. Some users express curiosity and admiration, noting that the results look natural in photos. Others remain skeptical, questioning whether the effect holds up in real life or whether the discomfort is worth it.

Medical professionals, meanwhile, urge caution.

“The under-eye area has extremely thin skin and a complex network of blood vessels and nerves. It is also highly sensitive and prone to dryness, so procedures in this area require particular care,” said dermatologist Kim Sung-soo.

Because the area moves constantly with facial expressions, improper technique can lead to complications.

“Repeated folding and stretching of the skin can increase the risk of bruising,” he said. “In rare cases, there can be vascular issues.”

Another concern is removal. Unlike traditional tattoos that use darker pigments, aegyosal tattoos rely on skin-toned or light-reflective colors - shades that do not respond well to standard laser removal.

“Black, red, or blue inks can be treated with specific lasers,” said dermatologist Son Seung-yong. “But skin-colored or white pigments often do not react to laser treatment, making them very difficult to remove. Patients need to think carefully before undergoing the procedure.” THE KOREA HERALD/ ASIA NEWS NETWORK