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Why top sushi restaurants in the United States leave diners so bored, and so broke

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Food is prepared across a white marble counter from diners at Sushi Nakazawa in New York on Dec. 29, 2019. (Ellen Silverman/The New York Times)

Food is prepared across a white marble counter from diners at Sushi Nakazawa in New York in this 2019 photograph.

PHOTO: ELLEN SILVERMAN/NYTIMES

Ligaya Mishan

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NEW YORK – Hiss, hiss, hiss. Up and down the marble counter, the sushi chefs are brandishing their weapons.

The first time, it is a thrill, the blue gush of the hand torch, the whoosh like an F-16 fighter jet taking flight.

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