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Why top sushi restaurants in the United States leave diners so bored, and so broke
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Food is prepared across a white marble counter from diners at Sushi Nakazawa in New York in this 2019 photograph.
PHOTO: ELLEN SILVERMAN/NYTIMES
NEW YORK – Hiss, hiss, hiss. Up and down the marble counter, the sushi chefs are brandishing their weapons.
The first time, it is a thrill, the blue gush of the hand torch, the whoosh like an F-16 fighter jet taking flight.


