Themed bars and Muslim-friendly eateries: The changing face of Joo Chiat

SINGAPORE – Joo Chiat, a neighbourhood in the east coast of Singapore, where colour runs riot and time seems to slow, is built on contradictions. Heritage and modernity sit cheek by jowl. Family-friendly offerings try to muscle out KTV businesses that once gave the street its seedy reputation. 

To residents like Ms Tan Li Ming, who has lived here all her life, this is part of its charm.

New entrants help breathe life into an old space. “It’s good for the neighbourhood. It gives people more options. It’s nice that you don’t really have to travel out of the neighbourhood to enjoy your day off on the weekend,” says the 36-year-old associate scientist.

Mr Edvarcl Heng, a 45-year-old publicist and resident of over five years, concurs, calling the mix of businesses balanced. 

“It is visually interesting to take a walk and, within 10 minutes, see a French bakery between a Vietnamese banh mi shop and a Chinese medical hall. Then you walk farther and there is a hawker centre preceding an entire row of modern eateries,” he says. 

“I am used to it, but to anyone new, it is an explosion of experiences. The real Singaporean rojak.” 

With its lively community and rich history, it is easy to see why businesses are drawn to Joo Chiat. And its coolness was recently codified when British hospitality group Time Out named it one of the coolest streets in the world in November.

Ms Lynn Tay, 45, founder of banh mi shop The Viet Roti, says residents here are game for creativity. 

Mr Brandon Grusd, 39, who runs weekend-only bar Dutch Door, has “massively fallen in love” with Joo Chiat. He says: “It’s the kind of community where you know people by their names and their dogs. There’s a texture here – it feels like the coast. People are more inclined to experiment.”

New kind of nightlife

There is a cosiness to the neighbourhood, palpable everywhere, from its semi-fine restaurants to swanky speakeasies.

Mr Benedict John Gerard, group general manager of F&B group Two S Creatives, conceptualised 60ml – a speakeasy nestled at the back of Spanish restaurant Asador – as a classy hideaway themed after 1930s America. It commits to the theme with oxblood banquettes, murals and period-specific jazz.

However, customers who step through its hidden entrance are not always dressed in the suits and dresses one might expect in a space like this. “When we opened 60ml in 2022, all of us were shocked. People were walking in in slippers and T-shirts. Then we realised they were coming from home,” says the 35-year-old. 

The bar quickly turned into something of a home away from home for residents, many of whom stay till closing and sometimes invite bartenders to their homes to continue drinking. 

This, he thinks, is a more intimate form of nightlife that might drive out the sleaze formerly associated with Joo Chiat’s drinking scene. In the early 2000s, the area was infamous for its proliferation of bars, massage parlours and karaoke lounges.

Concerned residents fought back, setting up a community watch and lobbying for legislation. Following tighter law enforcement and a moratorium on new licences for bars, lounges and massage parlours, the numbers of such businesses in the area declined.

Today, alcohol no longer inspires the same moral panic. In resident Ms Tan’s view, watering holes like 60ml and the recently opened speakeasy Gaudi Room have livened up the night in a good way. “It’s a refreshing change. The place is buzzing more than it did before Covid-19.”

This is not the kind of nightlife that raises the hackles of residents. “It’s very laid-back, more like people drinking and catching up with friends, not really clubbing. And it’s so convenient to hang out in the area. You can just walk home, you don’t have to pay for an expensive cab,” she says.

Keeping the balance

This eclectic mix suits the neighbourhood’s shifting demographics.

Mr Edmond Wong, chairperson of the Katong-Joo Chiat Business Association, describes Joo Chiat’s duality as a tale of two cities. There is the “old guard” – residents who have anchored the community for decades, and rely on traditional amenities like dried goods and coffee shops – as well as the “new wave” of young professionals, expatriates and young families. 

“This shift towards a more cosmopolitan and affluent population is visibly reshaping our hyper-local economy and driving a change in consumption habits,” he says. 

But this development also risks pricing out the middle class. “Our challenge is to manage this transition so that new changes complement rather than displace the heritage that attracted people here in the first place.” 

Operators like Mr Isaiah Tan, who opened speakeasy The Hidden Story in East Coast Road in 2022, are conscious of such tensions. Gentrification weighs heavily on the mind of the 52-year-old, who sees it as his responsibility to remind customers of Joo Chiat’s roots. 

His speakeasy is decorated with florid tiles and stained-glass lamps – a nod to the district’s Peranakan culture. “I wanted guests to reminisce about the past in this space. It was quite a labour of love to put this together,” says the long-time resident, who loves sharing bits of shophouse trivia he has picked up over the years with curious customers.

The association, for its part, tries to maintain the balance by hosting regular town halls and dialogue sessions. Mr Wong says these platforms let merchants establish common ground and solve concerns together. They also allow the association to identify and prioritise key areas of support. 

Rent, naturally, is top of mind for many businesses. It is what has driven out former mainstays like Blue Smoke, an Asian grill and smokehouse that moved out in April 2025 after seven years. It now operates from Horne Road.

Its rent doubled after the Covid-19 pandemic. Initially, managing director Ivan Yeo, 44, hung on to the unit as there were no better options around and the business was still “borderline profitable”.

“However, because of the rent increases, bigger players moved in. Joo Chiat was suddenly the latest trending location,” he recalls. 

The younger visitors these businesses attracted were more interested in window shopping than parting with cash. It did not help that his rent was jacked up again. This 45 per cent increase was the straw that broke the camel’s back. He decided to pack up for Jalan Besar, where his rent is less than half his former landlord’s asking price. 

Though he misses Joo Chiat’s quirky community – during the pandemic, customers would drop by to encourage the team with cookies, soups and snacks – he is sanguine about change.

“We are happy to be back in the Jalan Besar community, with more space between buildings, where people seem more relaxed. The walk-ins in Horne Road are definitely not as exciting as Joo Chiat’s, but thankfully, we have also shifted our business model to deal with the current economic trends,” he says.

Uneven footfall has also proved a silent killer, claiming eateries with slimmer margins like Joy of Fish, near the quieter intersection of Joo Chiat Place and Everitt Road, which closed in December 2025. Most of its sets were priced below $10. 

To residents like Mr Heng, the loss of hawker stalls – local eateries like Evertop Chicken Rice also exited the neighbourhood in mid-2025 – is cause for some concern. “We certainly do not need more shops selling banh mi, ice cream and coffee. Practically, more local options would improve the average affordability for both residents and visitors.” 

Novel culinary concepts like LimCha, a contemporary Teochew teahouse, and Province – South-east Asian omakase – are welcome, though. 

Business owners like Mr Tan, meanwhile, are not daunted by the constant influx of new competitors. He welcomes diversity. “I love that new bars are opening. All of us are unique and contribute to the liveliness of the neighbourhood. I want to work closely with them.” 

As Joo Chiat continues to shape-shift, here are some new concepts to look out for in the neighbourhood. 

Gaudi Room 

Where: 350 Joo Chiat Road
Open: 6pm to midnight, Tuesdays to Sundays; closed on Mondays
Info: @gaudi.room on Instagram 

Here is a little slice of Barcelona in Singapore. At the front of the house, a celebration of the city’s tapas bars, rustic and homey. And at the back, a tribute to its greatest architect. 

At Gaudi Room, the legacy of Antoni Gaudi has moulded every centimetre of the space, from the sloping Venetian plaster walls to the mosaic tables, pieced together by co-owner Antonio Miscellaneo, 53.  

Says co-owner Carlos Montobbio, 38: “It was quite challenging because in Singapore, you don’t find this kind of interior design. So, we had to be very picky with whom we chose for the furniture and plastering.” The Barcelona native also runs Carlitos, the Spanish restaurant fronting the speakeasy, which opened in August 2025. 

The two chefs pumped nearly six figures into renovating the space. It was a risk, especially in this climate of early evenings and alcohol abstinence, but one that they believe will pay off. 

“I think that if it’s a nice, thoughtful place with good ambience, good vibes and, of course, good drinks and good service, people will still come,” says Mr Montobbio.

As he has observed, dining habits are changing. Whereas guests previously planned dinners and drinks weeks in advance, many are now making last-minute decisions. 

“I think they try to restrain themselves a little, but when the weekend comes, they say, ‘You know what? Let’s enjoy life.’ So, they make it to the restaurant and then to the bar.” 

Mr Miscellaneo adds: “In any case, this type of concept is missing in the neighbourhood.” He wanted a bar that could keep pace with the high standards of food and service set by Carlitos and his Italian restaurant next door, La Bottega Enoteca. “Most of the other bars in Joo Chiat are more casual. You can get a drink, but in terms of experience, there’s no continuity with what guests get at our restaurants.”

What they offer here are classic cocktails with a twist. The Cafe de la Rambla ($24), for instance, resembles an espresso martini, just with an added dash of bread and miso water, while the Gaudoni Negroni ($26) tosses in cassis and cacao for extra tang. 

Nothing too exotic, says Mr Montobbio. “When people go to a bar, they might be in the middle of an important conversation. The last thing they want to do is study the menu for half an hour. So, we give them reference points: ‘Okay, I like margaritas. Ah, here they do a margarita with their own twist. You want to be able to decide on your drink in five minutes.”  

Marlow’s Deli 

Where: 162 Joo Chiat Road
Open: 9.30am to 7.30pm daily 
Info:

marlowsdeli.oddle.me/en_SG

 

Wooly’s Bagels, a popular chain that used to have outlets in Joo Chiat, Rangoon Road and Arab Street, has been reborn as Marlow’s Deli. It is the latest pivot for founder Ahmad Adam, 34, an entrepreneur who has long had his finger firmly on the pulse. 

He previously ran Egg Stop, a joint serving Korean-style egg sandwiches which were in vogue in the late 2010s and early 2020s. He later started Bored Tacos when he grew, well, bored of the trend. Likewise with bagels.

“Wooly’s was around for four years and started to get a bit boring, so we thought to change it. Nowadays, focaccia seems to be emerging as a trend, and it’s easier to eat than bagels.” 

He envisions Marlow’s as more of a sandwich shack than a cosy cafe. Joo Chiat has enough of those anyway. “I’ve lived here all my life, so I kind of know what’s around. You have Mexican, Italian and also Two Men Bagel House down the road, so there’s a bit of overcrowding there. But I don’t think there are that many delis or shops selling focaccia.” 

In particular, he has noticed a dearth of Muslim-friendly food options. “Obviously, we want to be very inclusive, and our target market includes Muslims because we get some overflow from the Paya Lebar community.” 

While Marlow’s Deli is not halal-certified, it is Muslim-owned and uses no pork or lard. Mr Ahmad plans to obtain halal certification once it scales up to more outlets.

“We’re trying to find foods that are not readily available to the Muslim market, and make these accessible for them while maintaining the taste of the original version.” 

He is especially proud of his salt beef sanga ($15.90), inspired by the salt beef bagels of London and Katz’s Delicatessen in New York. Other highlights on his quippy menu include Honey, I’m Ham ($13) – toasted focaccia with honey chicken ham slices, dill cream cheese, hot honey and pesto; and Better Call Sal ($16.9), made with smoked salmon, dill cream cheese, tomato, red onions and capers. 

Bastille Bakery 

Where: 261 Joo Chiat Road
Open: 8am to 6pm daily
Info: @bastillesg on Instagram

Good bakeries are a dime a dozen in Joo Chiat, but Bastille, which opened in September 2025, stands out, so it hopes, by being unapologetically French. This is one of few places in Singapore where you will find rarer patisserie like chouquettes ($10 for eight pieces).

So nostalgic are these sugary little bites that one French vendor got emotional upon seeing them on the counter. “It’s a childhood treat in France,” explains Mrs Wanlyn Tiberghien, 39, the bakery’s co-founder.

“You don’t get it a lot in Singapore, because of how airy it is. We have to batch make these chouquettes every three to four hours, and just to pack them for takeaway, we need to poke holes in the bag, otherwise the quality is compromised on arrival. So, although they look simple, they’re hard to come by.” 

Everything is made in an open kitchen here, from the madeleines (from $3.50) that co-founder Jean Denis Leleu ate as a young boy in Val-de-Marne to the classic croissant ($4.50) and pain au chocolat ($5.50). 

“For our croissants, 80 per cent of the ingredients are the same as what you can find in France. We respect the classic process, the lamination and the fermentation – they help tie all these flavours together,” says the 39-year-old baker, head of pastry at Tiong Bahru Bakery from 2020 to 2025. 

The co-founders met as neighbours, not in Joo Chiat, but the trendy, cafe-studded neighbourhood of Upper Thomson. Over rum nights and playdates – their children go to the same school – the dream of running this bakery together unfurled. 

“I’m turning 40 soon, and I’ve always wanted to have my own bakery. So, I figured this was the moment to jump into the deep end,” he says. 

Mrs Tiberghien, who is chief executive of proptech software start-up Smplrspace, was less familiar with the food and beverage industry. “This is obviously a risk, and I wouldn’t have joined if I wasn’t with a veteran from the industry. As his neighbour, I’ve been the recipient of many delicious bakes over the years, so I know I’m working with a guy who’s adamant about quality.” 

They are working on finding their footing and getting to know their clientele. The menu will remain constant for now, but, as Leleu puts it, nothing is set in stone.  

Just do not expect to find a matcha croissant here. “I just don’t understand the taste of matcha,” he says.  

The Viet Roti 

Where: 290K Joo Chiat Road
Open: 9am to 8pm, Mondays; 8.30am to 8pm, Thursdays to Sundays and Tuesdays; closed on Wednesdays
Info:

thevietroti.com

It takes a bold – and slightly foolhardy – person to open a banh mi shop in Joo Chiat, once known colloquially as Singapore’s Little Vietnam. Several have tried over the last couple of years – most have closed. 

The Viet Roti has thus far survived 1½ years on a street crowded with nearly 10 other Vietnamese restaurants, a streak founder Lynn Tay, 45, credits to her inventive menu and inclusive larder.

What she sells is not capital A authenticity, but banh mi by way of Singapore. Think flavours like kaya butter ($4.80 for a set with two soft-boiled eggs and hot coffee or tea) and mushroom with tau kwa ($7.80). 

There are Westernised combinations too: truffle tuna mayonnaise ($7.80) and crispy battered fish fillet ($7.80) banh mi. All these flourishes are underpinned by a pate she learnt from her Vietnamese mother-in-law. 

“Residents have responded quite well, actually,” says the Joo Chiat native. She cheers the arrival of younger residents, who bring with them a vibrant energy and appetite for experimentation. 

“Vietnamese food tends to be sweeter, but I’ve found that Singaporeans prefer savoury tastes. So, sometimes, I’ll add ingredients like satay. Or if a customer requests, I’ll add otah as well. I feel like youngsters are willing to accept new, bold combinations.” 

She also makes it a point to abstain from pork or lard. “Everyone should get the chance to taste a good banh mi.” 

Ms Tay is no stranger to the food scene. She hails from a family of cooks, famed for their Ocean Curry Fish Head business, which has outlets in Toa Payoh, Telok Ayer and Bedok North.

So, she understands intimately the joys and challenges of the business, as well as how fleeting success can be. “I can’t predict if I’ll be here long-term, but as long as my landlord is kind to me, I’d like to stay. I’ve worked in Joo Chiat for over 20 years. I’ve seen it change and I love it here. The community is so warm.” 

Dutch Door 

Where: 454 Joo Chiat Road
Open: Noon to 3pm, Saturdays and Sundays; closed on weekdays
Info:

ucqvqr-uh.myshopify.com

The one thing guests do not have to worry about at Dutch Door is choice paralysis. The bar, which operates out of – what else? – a Dutch door at Cheeers Bistro & Bar, serves only one drink, which rotates every month. 

In December, it was a dark and stormy with whipped honey. In October, a fluffy mango pina colada. January’s drink is pink pomelo palomas, served with a side of panettone.

Founder Brandon Grusd, 39, adopted this tight and focused approach as a way to combat concept drift. “You stick to the concept, you have a much better chance of creating identity and a reason for people coming to your bar,” says the industry veteran, who has been working in bars for over 20 years. He spent most of his career designing cocktail concepts for other business owners and watching his vision get diluted time and again.

“We just want to do one thing really well.” 

The bar is open only from noon to 3pm on Saturdays and Sundays, and the two-man team running the show dole out no more than 100 servings a day. This way, he knows how much he will need and is able to cut down on waste. 

Guests place orders in advance online and swing by to pick them up on the weekend. Each drink costs $20. “Another consideration of mine was how to deliver value,” he says. “I know high-end cocktails go for over $25, but here we give you a snack, plus a good environment to chat and hang out.” 

Each drink also comes with a customised stamp of the bartender who made it. This, Mr Grusd says, is a form of accountability. “We wanted to get creative, and be proud of what we do.”