The tomato salad you have been waiting for – with a doenjang twist

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Enjoy this tomato salad alongside a richer main dish, such as grilled steak, pork or chicken.

Enjoy this tomato salad alongside a richer main dish, such as grilled steak, pork or chicken.

PHOTO: ARMANDO RAFAEL/NYTIMES

Eric Kim

UNITED STATES – Spencer Huey just picked his first tomato of the season, a shiny red pearl from a backyard vine.

His spoon tomatoes ripened early because they are so small. The rest of his harvest in the Bay Area, where he lives and works as a cook at Chez Panisse restaurant, has more time to go. “Things,” he says, “are just starting.”

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