Tasty tapas and $38++ set lunch at Spanish restaurant Amor

SINGAPORE – There is a new Spanish restaurant in Amoy Street and it comes armed with earnest ambitions and punchy Mediterranean flavours. 

Novelty is a near-impossible pursuit in Singapore’s dining scene, especially when walking a path as well-trodden as Spanish cuisine.

Barcelona-inspired tapas? Its neighbour Tapas Bar and Grill has that covered, as do several other restaurants around town. Gaudi-inspired architecture? Hard to beat the attention to detail at Gaudi Bar.

Even the signature cheesecake on its menu was first popularised by another restaurant, Olivia Restaurant & Lounge – executive chef Yu Wang Leung’s former employer.

Still, one cannot fault Amor for trying. And try it does, with admirable heart. There is an egg dish that takes a pretty convincing stab at originality. The Happy Eggggg ($18++) is served almost dessert-like in an elegant martini glass, layered with roasted pumpkin coulis, a 65 deg C onsen egg, truffle sabayon, crispy jamon chips, brown butter sourdough croutons, as well as flecks of dill and chervil. 

It is a bit fussier than what you might find at a rustic, no-frills tapas bar, but it works. The flavours are savoury enough to command your attention and the thrill of watching all three layers fuse into a magnolia-flecked cloud is a feast enough for the eyes (and camera). 

Less successful is the kitchen’s take on escalivada, served here as a foie gras terrine tart ($16++). The foie gras, in this instance, is completely overpowered by the dominant notes of roasted eggplant, onion and capsicum. 

Best to stick to the less overwrought classics, like gambas al ajillo ($34++), made with fresh, garlicky prawns and a smoked potato foam, or jamon iberico croquettes ($14++), meltingly silky and encrusted with potato chips instead of panko, supplying that extra crunch. The latter is also available as part of a $38++ set lunch.

And if you have had enough of paella, the lobster arroz meloso ($76++) makes for a fantastic alternative. The rice here is cooked to just the right consistency in a rich seafood broth that would be perfect if it were a touch saltier, and topped with a succulent barbecued lobster. 

The meat dishes are no slouches either. The charcoal-grilled wagyu short rib ($68++) strikes an even balance between sweet and savoury, enlivened by a hint of tang from the accompanying sofrito and artichoke puree. 

For dessert, there is, of course, that famous Basque cheesecake, though Amor’s rendition has been tweaked slightly. It costs $16++ on the a la carte menu, but also comes with the set lunch, which has three courses and is available in vegetarian form too. 

Where: 107 Amoy Street
MRT: Telok Ayer
Open: Noon to 3pm, 7pm to midnight (Mondays to Saturdays)
Info: 

amorsingapore.com