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Shortages, smoothies and fraud: The matcha market cracks under pressure

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HEADLINE: Maybe Too Much Matcha
CAPTION: A matcha latte at Kettl, which sells Japanese tea at its store, in Brooklyn, Oct. 8, 2025. Once consumed mainly in small, formal tea ceremonies, matcha is now mixed into fruity lattes and preyed on by counterfeiters. 
CREDIT: (Colin Clark/The New York Times)

Once consumed in small, formal tea ceremonies, matcha is now mixed into fruity lattes and preyed on by counterfeiters.

PHOTO: COLIN CLARK/NYTIMES

Pete Wells

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UNITED STATES – Over four centuries, Japan built a tradition of drinking matcha that was based on four principles: wa, kei, sei and jaku, or harmony, respect, purity and tranquillity.

It took just a few years for a worldwide matcha craze to upend those values and replace them with disharmony, disrespect, impurity and fraud.

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