Not too hot, not too cold: Roast a chicken the way Goldilocks might

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Vietnamese-inspired roast chicken. Eric Kim brines his birds with a modest amount of salt and a good amount of spice, then cooks them just hot enough, and just long enough. Food Stylist: Cyd Raftus McDowell. (Armando Rafael/The New York Times)

Vietnamese-inspired Roast Chicken.

PHOTO: ARMANDO RAFAEL/NYTIMES

Eric Kim

NEW YORK – You can tell a lot about people by how they roast a whole chicken.

Do they do it like American writer Laurie Colwin, low and slow at 120 to 150 deg C for two to three hours? With a good book and a glass of wine? Or are they like American columnist Barbara Kafka, a hot-and-fast, smoke-out-your-kitchen type who cooks it at 260 deg C for just under an hour?

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