For subscribers
Hooked: Sushi gets bigger than ever in the United States
Sign up now: Weekly recommendations for the best eats in town
Once considered rarefied and exotic in the United States, sushi has become something entirely different in the last five years: convenience food.
PHOTO: SHAWN MICHAEL JONES/NYTIMES
Julia Moskin
Follow topic:
UNITED STATES – In 1985, when American actress Molly Ringwald’s character in The Breakfast Club pulls out a bento box of sushi at the fictional Shermer High School, the other students are unnerved by this mystifying lunch.
In 2025, when lunch period starts at the real Stevenson High School in Lincolnshire, a Chicago suburb similar to the movie’s setting, students race to line up at the sushi bar in the school cafeteria.

