Food Picks: Warm Catalan cooking at Cendra Tapas Bar and Grill

SINGAPORE – From the signed 2005/06 FC Barcelona jersey proudly framed on the wall to the Barcelona-born chef running the show behind the counter, Cendra’s message is clear. It wants you to know that this is a Catalan establishment through and through. 

It has spent the last year puffing away in Gemmill Lane, trying to illuminate the quiet alley with a touch of al fresco elegance, anchored in a menu that it proudly claims steers away from typical culinary cliches. 

Because the food here is Catalan, not generically Spanish, its rice dishes are prepared a la llauna – baked, in other words, in a shallow metal tray, as per tradition. Although similar to paella in appearance, this method infuses the rice, still satisfyingly firm, with savoury richness without burning any grains. 

It comes in two flavours: squid ink rice topped with prawns, scallops and garlic aioli ($42++) and the meatier combination of rice and Catalan pork sausage ($40++). 

That is not to say, however, that the menu is completely devoid of the requisite staples. Yes, it serves gambas “al ajillo” ($34++). Crystal bread with tomatoes ($12++) too, as well as plenty of Iberico ham ($36++ for 50g) and anchovies ($24++, with stracciatella and olive oil caviar). 

Chef Xavi Palau also makes phenomenal Iberico ham croquetas ($9++ for two pieces).

And for those who baulk at the funky unfamiliarity of the dry-aged rubia gallega striploin ($168++ for 600g and sold as a daily special), rest assured, the more approachable Australian wagyu striploin ($90++ for 300g) has a permanent spot on the menu.

Despite the Catalan focus, Cendra taps the riches of nearby regions too.

The “La Catedral” confit piquillo peppers ($16++), for instance, has a sauce made with peppers sourced from Navarra in Northern Spain. Sweet and tart, their gentle acidity shines brightest when paired with heavy meats. 

The dessert menu, meanwhile, makes room for French influence. A Basque cheesecake with strawberry sorbet ($16++) shares this category with a lemon pie tartlet ($14++) and sugar-free chocolate souffle ($18++).

The restaurant has thus far survived a year in Singapore’s tumultuous dining industry, a feat it rightly celebrated with lots of smoke and fire.

This diner can only hope it has enough to withstand the oncoming headwinds, marching into 2026 and beyond with ever more esoteric Catalan specialities. 

Where: 5 Gemmill Lane  
MRT: Telok Ayer  
Open: Noon to 2.30pm and 6 to 11pm (Wednesdays to Mondays); closed on Tuesdays and Saturday lunchtime
Info:

cendra.sg