Food Picks: Strong drink, decent food and plush views at roof-top bar Baia

SINGAPORE – At the turn of the first millennium, Baia was the Las Vegas of the Roman Empire. A “vortex of luxury” and “harbour of vice” – according to Stoic philosopher Seneca the Younger – it was where the who’s who of the ancient world flocked to for weekend parties and illicit affairs. 

Today, things have quietened down a bit. Much of the ancient city now languishes in a watery grave at the bottom of the sea. But thousands of miles away, on a rooftop in Singapore, an attempt is being made to revive its name and ethos.  

This jewel-toned bar, trimmed with neon lights and plastered in wallpaper of dancing ladies, is the latest venture by Italy-born restaurateur Beppe de Vito. And it has all the quintessential components of a high-octane lifestyle destination by 21st-century standards: stunning views, thumping beats and an extensive cocktail menu. 

Yet it retains much of that elite Roman insouciance too. Here, you do not even have to lift a knife to slice your food. The wagyu beef bavette ($24), for one thing, is fork-tender and has been divided into neat pink strips, so that it arrives on the table ready to be popped straight into your mouth. 

Alternatively, pick your way through one of the raw offerings or golden bites. The Iberico pork jowl straccetti with BBQ mayo ($18) is especially addictive, as is the hot salami, mozzarella and San Marzano pizza ($18). 

The food menu is not terribly vast, but includes enough small plates, most of them meat or seafood, to keep diners sated and satisfied.

Thankfully, despite the restaurant’s ode to bacchanalian excess, the prices remain reasonable. Apart from a couple of caviar-laden creations, most dishes stay under $25.  

And anyway, food is not the focus here. Demonstrably more thought has been devoted to the sprawling cocktail menu, which is divided into three sections: Sol, for radiant and refreshing aperitivos; Nox, maximalist concoctions that channel the sensuality of dusk; and Mosaics, a collection of shareable, quick-serve drinks ideal for large groups. 

They put a playful spin on familiar flavours. There is Lost Wonder ($24), for instance, an “old fashioned in reverse”, spiked with Michter’s Bourbon, Banana Marsala and chocolate; or the bittersweet Eclipse ($24), the bar’s version of an affogato, with barrel-aged Ferrand 1840 cognac, fresh-brewed espresso and vanilla choco espuma. 

As far as epicurean experiences go, this might not necessarily be one for the books – or tablets, if we are keeping with the Roman theme. But with strong drink, decent food and plush views, it still promises a good old-fashioned time. 

Where: Level 4 Esplanade Mall, 8 Raffles Avenue 
MRT: Esplanade 
Open: 5pm to midnight, Sundays to Thursdays; 5pm to 1am, Fridays and Saturdays 
Info:

baia.sg