Food Pick: Pop-up concept Mami’s Tamales turns permanent

SINGAPORE – Pop-up concept Mami’s Tamales, which opened at 55 Keong Saik Road on July 18, was slated to run for three months, but its owners have decided to make the restaurant a permanent one. 

Co-owner and chef Maribel Colmenares, 38, says the overwhelming response to the tamaleria – which specialises in tamales – prompted the decision to continue serving its authentic Mexican fare to diners. 

Tamales are a traditional Mexican dish made from masa (corn dough) and filled with meats, cheeses, fruit, vegetables or chillies. Wrapped in corn husks or banana leaves and steamed until tender, tamales are a staple in Mexican cuisine.

Mami’s Tamales serves them with bona fide Mexican fillings and Asian-inspired ones.

To make the corn dough for the tamales, the eatery uses nixtamalised corn imported from Mexico. Nixtamalisation is a process in which corn is soaked and cooked in an alkaline solution to improve its nutritional value, as well as its aroma and flavour. 

A signature tamale is Pork Salsa Verde ($18++). The pale yellow oblong-shaped tamale is served simply garnished with a deep-fried chilli and a sprig of coriander. The wrap of steamed corn dough is generously packed with pork shoulder spiced with tomatillos (Mexican husk tomatoes), jalapenos, garlic and cilantro.

For a taste of the familiar, try the Ayam Sambal Hijau ($14++), where the corn dough encases a filling of housemade chicken in green chilli sambal. The tender meat packs a punch from the use of green finger chillies and green bird’s eye chillies.

Worth ordering is the Esquites Vasolote ($11++), a starter of sauteed sweet corn kernels bathed in housemade jalapeno aioli with a savoury sprinkle of queso fresco, a milky white cheese.

The dish is topped with crispy strips of tortilla drizzled with salsa macha, made from Chiles de Arbol, a slender but fiery Mexican chilli pepper. In looks and taste, the salsa macha is similar to Sichuan chilli crisp oil, sans the numbing effect.

Tamales may rule the roost at the eatery, but its Mexican sandwiches are no less alluring.

Go for the Four Cheese Molletes ($14++), an open-faced sandwich of toasted bolillo (a Mexican bread roll), spread with refried beans and topped with melted Oaxaca cheese (a white low-fat cheese), Cotija (aged cow’s milk cheese), Mexican cheddar and crumbly bits of queso fresco. Fresh slices of avocado and pico de gallo complete the sandwich.

For a heartier choice, order the Torta De Milanesa De Pollo ($20++), which comprises a slab of breaded chicken tucked between slices of bolillo. Smoky chipotle chilli takes the spice level up a few notches. The dish comes with crunchy fries that are sprinkled with paprika and queso fresco. 

Where: Mami’s Tamales, 01-02, 55 Keong Saik Road
MRT: Outram Park
Open: Noon to 2.30pm, 5 to 10pm, Tuesdays to Thursdays and Sundays; noon to 2.30pm, 5 to 11pm, Fridays and Saturdays; closed on Mondays
Tel: 9711-1487