A to Z of 2024: Nanyang kopi’s snazzy iterations stir up interest among young consumers

SINGAPORE – Traditional coffee from South-east Asia, also known as Nanyang coffee, was on an uptrend in 2024, stirring interest among young consumers with snazzy iterations such as Great Nanyang Heritage Cafe’s Coconut Coffee and Soymilk Coffee. 

Fuelling the revival of traditional coffee was a growing number of retro-themed cafes here which serve traditional coffee, along with local or Malaysian dishes.

Mr Keith Kang, 41, owner and founder of Great Nanyang Heritage Cafe in Tanjong Pagar, launched a second outlet in Somerset in March.

He plans to open eight more branches. His third outlet is slated to open at Singapore Science Park in March 2025.

A fan of Nanyang coffee, he designed his cafes to evoke a sense of nostalgia.

He says: “I want to keep traditions alive through different generations by offering a space for the older generation to reminisce and the younger generation to learn what things were like in the old days.”

While his cafes target consumers of all ages, some concoctions are aimed at the younger set. Traditional coffee gets a trendy twist in Soymilk Coffee ($5.90+), Coconut Coffee ($5.90+), Hor Ka Sai (Milo and coffee, $3+) and Sai Ka Hor (tea and coffee, $3+).

Popular Malaysian kopitiam chain Oriental Kopi opened its first overseas outlet at Bugis Junction on Nov 27. Its signature drink, Oriental Kopi, is a full-bodied Nanyang-style brew made from arabica, robusta and liberica beans (prices start at $2). It also sells egg tarts, bolo buns and nasi lemak.

Gelato cafe Tom’s Palette is also riding the wave with a gelato made using Nanyang coffee cold brew.

But why this fuss over Nanyang coffee, and what makes it different from other gourmet coffees?

Coffee suppliers say it refers to a traditional style of coffee made from robusta beans roasted with sugar and margarine or butter. Caramelisation in the roasting process results in rich, full-bodied coffee.

Each coffee seller has his own blend and style. Some add arabica or liberica beans, or both, to the mix, but robusta is usually the main coffee bean in Nanyang-style brews. 

Mr Guan Lim, 47, head of coffee roaster and supplier Queen’s Coffee, reckons that gourmet and speciality coffee have set the stage for younger consumers to be curious about different kinds of brews.

Over at Nanyang Kopi Kia Claypot Coffee at International Plaza, co-owner and coffee master David Wu, 47, draws customers with his style of brewing coffee, with clay pots traditionally used for brewing Chinese medicine. 

“People in their 20s and 30s are into nostalgia,” he says. “More locals are starting to notice the value and allure of Nanyang coffee. You do not need to be a coffee connoisseur to enjoy it.”

The resurgence of traditional coffee has also revitalised the local coffee industry. 

Six years ago, Mr Kang Yi Yang, executive director of coffee manufacturer Santino, worried whether there was a future and space in the market for traditional coffee.

Now, Nanyang coffee has moved from a coffee-shop staple to being “nice to have on the menu” in other kinds of establishments, he says.

He believes there is room for the trend to grow, and sees the entry of more Malaysian coffee concepts into the local market as beneficial in the long run.

“These brands wanting to come into the Singapore market reinforce the trend of traditional coffee. The Nanyang coffee wave may well last for the next decade.”