Food Picks: Tapas from $8 at Carlitos

Those who have been to Spain will know that the best tapas is not served on the sleek silverware of Michelin-starred restaurants. Often, it is found in eateries tucked away in nondescript neighbourhoods, brimming with locals unwinding along a narrow bar counter, on which plates upon plates of local specialities are stacked. 

Only time will tell whether Carlitos, a new Spanish restaurant in Joo Chiat that opens on Nov 8, manages to cultivate that same atmosphere of homey conviviality. For a start at least, it has the classic bar counter, a menu loaded with more than 30 types of tapas from all over Spain and memories from Spanish chef Carlos Montobbio’s childhood in Barcelona. 

Unlike his Jiak Chuan Road fine-dining establishment Esquina, where Spanish cuisine gets a modern makeover, Carlitos is all about honouring tradition. It is a collaboration with long-time friend and La Bottega chef Antonio Miscellaneo and features solid, unpretentious cooking that does not smother its ingredients in seasoning, giving them plenty of room to breathe. 

Tapas prices start at $8. Taste the sweetness of potatoes in the tortilla donostia ($10 a slice), made from scratch every morning with organic eggs and confit shallots. Savour the creamy luxuriance of the bunuelos de pamplona ($12), codfish fritters enlivened by an earthy dollop of saffron aioli. Feel the crunch of the sobrassada molletes ($10), a mini toasted flatbread sandwich packed with paprika pork sausage, creamy burrata and honey. 

The lighter flavours leave a good amount of space for Calito’s xup-xup, which are pots of Spanish stew simmered over long hours. For a strong whiff of the sea, try the Arroz Caldoso de Gambas ($28) – soupy rice studded with Mediterranean red prawns and vongole veraci clams that give the broth a briny depth. Crush the prawn heads for a stronger jolt of umami. 

Fans of Esquina’s mini basque cheesecakes will be pleased to find it on Carlitos’ menu too, served here with a scoop of sangria sorbet ($12). The caramel flan with coffee cream ($10) is another velvety treat that recalls the warmth of a cosy autumn day.  

Where: 350 Joo Chiat Road
MRT: Marine Parade
Open: 5.30 to 11pm, Wednesdays and Thursdays; 11.30am to 3.30pm, 5.30 to 11pm, Fridays and Saturdays; 11.30am to 3.30pm, 5.30 to 10.30pm, Sundays 
Tel: 9776-5348
Info: carlitos.sg