Do regular facials actually improve your skin?

NEW YORK – Smoother skin, smaller pores, better hydration – these are just a few of the many benefits facials claim to offer. And who is not relaxed after being horizontal for an hour while someone massages his or her face?

Glowing skin is a major and immediate benefit of getting a facial. But the perk tends to fade after a few days or weeks. And aestheticians will often say that if you want longer-term improvements, such as fewer wrinkles, less acne or an even skin tone, you will need to get facials regularly.

Is that true? Three dermatologists weigh in.

What are the benefits?

Facials come in many forms, said Dr Susan Massick, a dermatologist at the Ohio State University Wexner Medical Center.

Standard ones incorporate some type of deep cleansing, exfoliating, moisturising, massaging and sometimes “extraction”, or squeezing the gunk out of your pores, she said. They are also often tailored to address specific skin issues such as acne, dullness or discolouration, she added. You can get facials at medical spas or salons, and dermatology offices.

When your skin is cleansed, massaged and exfoliated, dead skin cells are removed from the outermost layer of the skin called the epidermis, said Dr Helen He, an assistant professor of dermatology at the Icahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai in New York City. This speeds up the skin’s cell turnover rate, which may help brighten your complexion, smooth its texture and shrink pores, she added.

The skin is also typically massaged during the cleansing, moisturising and serum application steps. This can boost circulation and lymphatic drainage, Dr He said, which may minimise puffiness.

Beyond skincare, regular facials can help you to unwind and de-stress, said Dr Basia Michalski-McNeely, an assistant professor of dermatology at the Washington University School of Medicine in St Louis.

“It’s an hour where you don’t have any interruptions, and it’s just focused on wellness and taking care of yourself,” she said.

Will regular facials extend those effects?

Generally, the benefits of a single facial are short-lived, lasting a few days to a couple of weeks, Dr Michalski-McNeely said. This is because the epidermis naturally renews about every month, Dr He said. When this happens, dead skin cells build up and can clog pores, potentially leading to acne and dull skin, she explained.

A good skincare routine can address this build-up, but getting facials regularly – every four to eight weeks, for instance – can support healthy skin cell turnover, which may enhance collagen production, leading to more firmness and elasticity in the long run, Dr He said.

Regular facials that are tailored to your skin may also offer extended benefits, Dr Massick said. If you are prone to acne, you might get one that incorporates extraction. If you have dry skin, you might seek extra moisturising steps.

Still, there are some skin qualities that regular facials may not improve. People with deep wrinkles or skin sagging, for instance, may not get as many skin-smoothing or tightening benefits from facials alone, Dr He said.

Sometimes, facials incorporate treatments such as chemical peels or LED light therapy, which, when done regularly, can bring more “lasting results” than traditional facials, such as lightening dark spots or treating acne, Dr Massick said.

What else should you consider?

Regular facials are safe for most people, Dr Massick said, though she recommended avoiding them if you have an active skin infection – such as cold sores or shingles – or facial wounds that are still healing.

She also recommended being cautious of facials or consulting a doctor if you have rosacea, psoriasis, eczema or sensitive skin.

Dr Michalski-McNeely said she does not discourage people from getting facials, but she also does not think they are necessary for those with a good, consistent skincare routine. A basic one includes cleansing, moisturising and wearing sunscreen of at least SPF 30 daily, Dr Massick said.

Dr Michalski-McNeely also suggested incorporating an over-the-counter retinol or a prescription retinoid. It is a more effective and longer-lasting option for increasing skin cell turnover, improving collagen production and brightening the skin.

This, with a good skincare regimen, is far more effective for anti-ageing than facials alone, Dr Massick said. But facials can complement these habits, she added.

Cosmetic procedures such as Botox, microneedling or laser resurfacing treatments can also offer longer-term benefits than facials, such as boosting collagen, smoothing fine lines and minimising the appearance of acne scars and dark spots, Dr Michalski-McNeely added.

But these can be expensive too and might require a visit to a dermatologist, which she recommended.

If you get a facial at a medical spa or salon, Dr Massick suggested seeking out a licensed and experienced aesthetician – and asking about the products he or she uses, the procedure and what to expect afterwards. Always tell your aesthetician if you are allergic to fragrances or other ingredients that may be in skincare products.

Facials can be “a fun and relaxing treat”, Dr Massick said, just make sure you set appropriate expectations and do not rely on them as your sole source of skincare. NYTIMES