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Letter From Kannauj

An aromatic dip into India’s historic perfume-making city

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ddletter02 - Pranav Kapoor, 35, an eighth-generation perfumer based in the city, at work at his ‘Perfume Bar’. Credit: Debarshi Dasgupta

Mr Pranav Kapoor, an eighth-generation perfumer based in Kannauj, at work at his ‘Perfume Bar’.

ST PHOTO: DEBARSHI DASGUPTA

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As the raucous neighbourhood in Farsh Road in Kannauj winds down for the day, an intoxicating scent wafts up from one of its open-air stone courtyards. Sprawled on it is a shimmering white carpet of jasmine flowers – all freshly plucked that evening.

The aromatic storm is a defiant nocturnal swansong that these dainty flowers have unleashed before they are dunked into a bulbous copper pot to have their fragrance distilled into jasmine essential oil.

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