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Letter From Manila

Say a prayer, then buy a love potion: The mystery of Manila’s Quiapo district

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maletter - Medallions bearing the image of Saint Benedict, believed by Catholics to provide protection, are sold by one vendor in Quiapo, Manila alongside different talismans and amulets meant to ward off evil spirits.
ST PHOTO: MARA CEPEDA

Medallions bearing the image of Saint Benedict, believed by Catholics to provide protection, on sale in Quiapo, Manila.

ST PHOTO: MARA CEPEDA

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Just a few steps from a church that houses the famed Black Nazarene, a dark-skinned image of Jesus Christ believed to be miraculous, I found myself seated before a fortune teller with a wild mane of frizzy, grey hair.

The 74-year-old has read tarot cards for decades, having lived in this central Manila district called Quiapo since she was a little girl. She laid her deck of worn, greying cards gently atop a fan made of straw resting on her lap and asked me to pick the ones that called out to me.

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