Akita’s jumbo rabbit cuisine under threat as suppliers age, tastes evolve

TOKYO - Snow-white fur, ruby-red eyes and a taste that has been part of the culinary landscape in northern Japan’s Akita Prefecture for generations.

The jumbo rabbit, a local breed raised for food, is both a regional delicacy and a cultural touchstone, yet its survival now hangs in the balance.

The jumbo rabbit is a large breed of domestic rabbit, with the most well-known example being the Flemish Giant, which can weigh up to 10kg and reach 76cm in length. These rabbits are often described as “gentle giants” due to their calm and docile nature, making them popular family pets despite their imposing size.

For decades, the breed has been a staple of festive meals, especially during New Year’s celebrations, with its tender, flavorsome meat widely consumed.

While rabbit dishes are common overseas, Japan has several domestic breeds raised specifically for consumption, making Akita’s jumbo rabbit all the more valuable.

But evolving diets and a shrinking number of producers have put this tradition at risk.

“It has a wild flavor that complements Japanese cuisine. It seems like an ingredient worth exploring in various dishes,” said Mr Ryo Ito, a Tokyo restaurant owner, after trying rabbit hot pot for the first time in the central Akita Prefecture city of Daisen in August.

The meat’s texture is mild, reminiscent of Akita’s famous hinai jidori chicken, yet it carries a richer, fattier flavour. Beyond miso-based hot pots, grilled and fried dishes are also popular among locals.

The breed’s significance was nationally recognised in 2021 when it was included in the Agency for Cultural Affairs’ 100-Year Food list, alongside other regional staples like “kiritanpo” cylindrical pounded rice, and “inaniwa udon” hand-twisted noodles.

Akita’s history of rabbit consumption stretches back to the Meiji era. Historical records from Daisen, one of the main rabbit hubs, indicate that around 17,000 were produced across the prefecture in 1926.

However, numbers declined due to diversifying food preferences, and by fiscal 2024, just six producers remained in Daisen, collectively raising only about 200 rabbits.

Local authorities have recognised that preserving the jumbo rabbit requires more than farming – it needs public engagement and cultural promotion.

Since 1988, Daisen has hosted the National Jumbo Rabbit Festival every autumn, attracting nearly 10,000 visitors. The event features competitions featuring rabbits from across Akita Prefecture and beyond, games and various other activities.

The city is also developing a new specialty breed, nakasen getsuyo, fed with perilla pulp – believed to offer health and beauty benefits to those who eat it. These efforts aim to sustain the breed and inspire renewed interest in rabbit consumption.

Despite these initiatives, the festival has not escaped criticism.

Animal welfare groups have labeled rabbit consumption “barbaric” and urged the cancellation of events.

For longtime rabbit farmer Akio Sato, 84, who has been raising rabbits for nearly five decades, such criticism is bewildering.

“Jumbo rabbits have lived alongside this community for generations. I want people to understand their history (not just see them as food),” Mr Sato said.

The breed’s appeal has also attracted younger entrepreneurs. Mr Tatsumi Muto, 28, originally from Hokkaido, first learned about jumbo rabbits while studying at university and moved to Akita City around four years ago to start his own farm.

Mr Muto aims not only to ship rabbit meat but also to process fur and develop products using bones, creating a sustainable model that respects both tradition and innovation.

“If things continue like this, the jumbo rabbit – bred only in Akita – could disappear,” Mr Muto said. “I want people to discover how delicious rabbit meat is, and I hope it can help spread Akita’s food culture beyond the prefecture.”

For the people of Akita, the jumbo rabbit is more than an ingredient. It is a living connection to the region’s history, a testament to local culinary ingenuity, and a symbol of resilience in the face of modern pressures. KYODO