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Letter From Sydney
‘They took you to another world’: Reviving the Greek cafes of Australia
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The Niagara Cafe in the small town of Gundagai, about 380km from Sydney, is one of Australia’s last remaining "Greek cafes”.
PHOTO: NIAGARA CAFE
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SYDNEY – The main road in the small town of Gundagai, about 380km from Sydney, features an ordinary assortment of nondescript stores – banks, pubs, a butcher and supermarket – that can be found in any such town in Australia. But there is one unmissable exception.
Visitors, including those who stop by for a break on the long drive between Sydney and Melbourne, will notice a large neon sign – one of the oldest neon signs in Australia – that shoots out of the roof of one of the stores, emblazoned with the name of the premises: “Niagara Cafe”.

