SINGAPORE – There was a time when sunscreens were simple. The products usually had a chalky texture and existed solely to shield the skin from the sun. The better ones did not clog pores.
Not anymore.
Consumer attitudes around the world have shifted a lot over the past 15 years, according to Ms Holly Thaggard, founder of renowned sunscreen brand Supergoop!.
“It has changed from being reactive – ‘What do I need to do in order to correct the sun damage my skin has already incurred?’ – to proactive – ‘What can I use every day to keep my skin sun-safe from the get-go?’” she says in an e-mail interview with The Straits Times.
Sunscreens are an important part of an anti-ageing routine as regular sun exposure can cause myriad problems, from loss of collagen to dark spots to premature lines. It can also potentially cause skin cancer.
Ms Thaggard adds that South-east Asians, in particular, prefer multi-functional sunscreens.
“They are looking for products like ours, which deliver many more skin and beauty benefits,” she says.
Following the success of Supergoop!’s Unseen Sunscreen SPF40, a 100 per cent invisible sunscreen in 2018, the brand went on to launch several other variations of sunscreens, including the Glowscreen Dawn Broad Spectrum Sunscreen (a tinted sunscreen with skincare ingredients) as well as the (Re)setting Refreshing Mist, a make-up setting mist imbued with SPF powers.
Indeed, this skincare category has seen a spate of innovations over the past decade.
From different types of sunscreens to TikTok-viral ultraviolet stickers, which are made from photochromic ink or material that changes colour to indicate when sunscreen should be reapplied, there is now a plethora of level-up options to choose from to ensure you are able to keep those harmful rays at bay.
Whichever sunscreen you choose, however, Ms Thaggard has advice for those living in tropical climates.
“It’s really important to use an SPF between 30 and 50. Anything less than 30 isn’t enough, and anything over 50 tends to use unnecessary ingredients,” she says, referring to sun protection factor, a measure of the amount of the UV radiation required to produce sunburn on protected skin.
The higher the SPF, the higher the degree of protection a sunscreen offers.
“It’s also important to reapply every two hours or more if you’re swimming or sweating. But even if you aren’t, sunscreen will always fade and degrade over time, so you really have to be mindful of applying more throughout the day,” Ms Thaggard adds.
She recommends building an SPF wardrobe rather than relying on just one sunscreen.
This emerging trend enables individuals to pick and choose different SPF formulas, depending on their day’s activity.
With that in mind, The Straits Times has compiled a list of sunscreen innovations and asked two aesthetic doctors, Dr Tan Ying Zhou of Mizu Aesthetics and Dr Rachel Ho of La Clinic, to share their thoughts on them.
24-hour sunscreen
All-day sunscreens claim to provide extended protection against the sun’s harmful UV rays, unlike regular sunscreens which require reapplication every few hours. They typically use technology and ingredients that are resistant to sweat, water and rubbing, allowing them to adhere to the skin for an extended period of time.
For example, British sun-care brand Calypso Sun’s Once a Day Sun Protection range boasts a full-day protection.
Consisting of five products ranging from SPF10 to SPF50+ in both lotion and aerosol formats, the range is formulated with vitamin E and without fragrances. Available on www.calypsosun.com, the Once a Day Lotion SPF40 (£8.99 or S$15) is made especially for children and those with sensitive skin.
Dr Tan says: “The active ingredients in sunscreens are most effective in the first few hours of application. With exposure, they slowly break down after that. If you work indoors and sit away from the window, then this might be suitable. Otherwise, on days when you’re outdoors with direct and prolonged exposure, it is still advisable to reapply your sunscreen.”
Dr Ho says: “Some brands do not substantiate how their sunscreens last 24 hours. Even if it does, I would still recommend reapplying after two to three hours.”
Edible sunscreen
Oral sunblock contains polypodium leucotomos extract, which is also known as fernblock.
This dietary supplement, which is derived from the leaves of a fern found in Central America, has been shown in multiple clinical studies to be effective in protecting skin against cellular damage caused by UV exposure.
According to recent studies, consuming up to 480mg of fernblock a day is generally considered safe for the majority of adults.
Developed by home-grown supplements brand Nuceuticals after five years of research, the Skinergy Collagen Shot with UV Protection has marine collagen (BMC) peptides, vitamin C and 450mg of fernblock, among other things.
The shots, which are conveniently packaged in individual sachets, are purportedly able to activate and nourish skin’s natural production of vibrant, healthy cells.
Each box of Nuceuticals has 28 sachets and costs $150, and you can purchase a bundle of three for $405. It is available from a number of aesthetic and medical clinics across Singapore as well as via www.nuceuticals.com
Dr Tan says: “Edible sunscreens are not actually sunscreens per se, but they reduce the oxidative effects of sun damage on the skin by reducing free radical damage. They are essentially antioxidants and help protect the skin to a certain extent from sun damage and to recover from sun damage faster. But applying physical sunscreen along with this is still recommended. I take edible sunscreen whenever I go diving.”
Dr Ho says: “These oral supplements do not absorb UV rays or reflect UV rays like true sunscreen filters. These supplements shouldn’t replace good sunscreen habits.”
Wash-on sunscreen
Used in the shower, these products – which are essentially facial or body washes with built-in sun protection – are said to be able to clean and leave sun-protective properties on your skin whenever you lather them on, making them great for sunscreen-averse children and less motivated adults.
Klenskin, a company specialising in wash-on sunblocks, claims its Sunscreen Spa Wash On ($39) with broad-spectrum protection is the world’s first – and only – clinically proven wash-on sunscreen.
It utilises a patented encapsulation system to ensure that the sunscreen layers seamlessly onto the skin to create a protective barrier. Enriched with essential oils, it can be used on the face, scalp and body and is supposed to “clean, hydrate and protect” in one step.
On Klenskin’s website, the brand instructs users to lather the product on for two minutes and pat dry when towelling off.
The fragrance-free version has recently been voted as the Best Sunscreen for the Lazy Guy by men’s publication Men’s Health. You can get it from www.klenskin.com
Dr Tan says: “Wash-on sunscreen apparently leaves a semi-occlusive layer on the skin after washing, which might not be recommended for people who are prone to clogged pores and acne. I will still recommend using an applied sunscreen until further studies are conclusive.”
Sunscreen with skincare benefits
These hybrid sunscreens are typically supercharged with skin-loving ingredients that are said to nourish, hydrate, soothe or address specific skincare concerns such as dehydration, fine lines and dullness.
To target fine lines, wrinkles and loss of elasticity, the Daily Dose Bioretinol + Mineral SPF 40 Fluid ($76) by American sun care brand Supergoop! uses olive esters, glycerin, a collagen-boosting peptide, L-Carnosine, as well as 1 per cent retinol – in the form of bakuchiol.
Traditional retinoids tend to cause irritation and heightened sun sensitivity and, as a result, are typically reserved for nighttime routines. Unlike retinol, however, bakuchiol is a gentle, pregnancy-safe alternative that is derived from a plant and delivers similar benefits.
The result? Smoother, brighter and more rejuvenated skin the safe way.
Supergoop! is available at all Sephora stores and sephora.sg
Dr Tan says: “It depends on the active ingredient that has been added into the formulation as some ingredients might not be as effective when combined with the active ingredients of sunscreen. Nonetheless, it could be a very smart way of using sunscreen moving forward.”
Dr Ho says: “Sunscreens that contain other active ingredients can offer multitasking benefits to users. Antioxidants like vitamin C, for instance, help to reduce free radical damage to the skin from UV rays and the environment.”
Sunscreen that protects against blue light
Scientific studies indicate that the blue light emitted by electronic devices such as mobile phones, computer screens and flat-screen televisions penetrates more deeply than UV rays and can have detrimental effects on skin cells. These effects include cell shrinkage and cell death, which in turn accelerate the ageing process.
Traditional sunscreens do not typically protect from blue light damage, but these sunscreens claim they do.
For example, Spanish sunscreen brand Heliocare’s 360º Pigment Solution Fluid SPF 50+ ($40.90) claims to guarantee a full-spectrum protection, not just against UVB and UVA, but also against blue light and infrared radiation-A.
To do so, the brand uses biomimetic melanin, an artificial melanin which purportedly helps absorb blue light. This sunscreen is available from www.heliocare.com.sg
Dr Tan says: “Although the exposure to blue light is smaller in comparison to the exposure to the sun, it is definitely beneficial in the long run to think of protection against blue light, especially if you’re facing your computer screen all day.”
Dr Ho says: “Research into blue light protection isn’t as well established as that for its UV counterpart, but early studies show that blue light can exacerbate hyperpigmentation in individuals with darker skin. It could be useful for those with dark skin and dark spots like melasma.”
Reef-safe sunscreen
More Asian sunscreens are being developed with a focus on environmental consciousness.
These sunscreens are said to have been crafted without harmful chemicals that pose risks to coral reefs and marine life. Instead, they harness the power of mineral-based UV filters such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, which are recognised as safer alternatives for marine ecosystems. Some of these formulations also strive for biodegradability.
Japanese skincare brand Sekkisei, under Kose, has introduced four sunscreens for different needs – Clear Wellness UV Sunscreen Essence Milk SPF50+ ($28), Clear Wellness UV Sunscreen Essence Gel SPF50+ ($26), Clear Wellness UV Sunscreen Tone Up SPF35 ($23) and Clear Wellness UV Sunscreen Mild Milk SPF50+ ($28).
The protective shield of this sunscreen range is supposed to become even stronger when exposed to seawater and stays on for up to 80 minutes, ensuring reliable protection even during water activities.
Those who are looking for a make-up hybrid to even out their complexion should pick the lavender-tinted Tone Up, while those with sensitive skin should go for Mild Milk.
All four sunscreens, however, are supposedly enriched with a variety of hardworking botanicals like their trademark Itowa (which is a blend of Alpinia speciosa leaf extract, peony extract, noni juice and glycerin), as well as Hokkaido-sourced Haskap extract to promote a clear, radiant complexion while preventing sunburn.
The range is currently available exclusively on e-commerce platform Shopee, and will be available at selected department stores and online at Kose’s official stores on Shopee and Lazada.
Dr Ho says: “Look out for ingredients like oxybenzone and octinoxate in the ingredients list as these have been linked to bleaching and infections of coral reef. Some brands state that their sunscreens are ‘ocean-friendly’ or ‘coral reef-safe’, but bear in mind that these terms are not regulated, so the onus falls on the manufacturer to ensure that its sunscreens meet these standards.”
SPF100 sunscreen
SPF serves as a gauge for the amount of time it takes for the skin to redden, compared with not using any sunscreen at all. An SPF 100 sunscreen theoretically provides 100 times the protection of unprotected skin.
Contrasting opinions have emerged regarding the effectiveness of SPF 100 compared with SPF 50 sunscreens.
While certain scientific studies suggest that SPF 100 provides superior defence against sunburn, a group of experts counters this by highlighting the marginal difference in protection levels – SPF 50 shields against 98 per cent of UV rays, while SPF 100 raises this to only 99 per cent.
Banana Boat Sport Ultra Sunscreen Lotion, SPF 100 ($55.90) is formulated for sports enthusiasts and active individuals who crave unwavering protection outdoors, and is said to help protect against 99 per cent of burning rays. You can find it on Amazon Singapore.
Dr Tan says: “The sun protection you would get from SPF 100 is only very marginally higher than SPF 50. In most cases, it’s not necessarily the higher the better. You’d have to consider if the high SPF sunscreen offers you enough broad spectrum protection or PA value (protection grade from UVA rays) as well. That being said, in the long run, that marginal increase in protection in high SPF products may still be better able to protect you.”
Dr Ho says: “Sunscreens with SPF values beyond 30 offer minimal additional protection. However, what’s been found is that many users frequently use less than adequate sunscreen, so using sunscreens with higher SPF can provide additional protection for users.”
